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Thread: Any HVAC miscers?
06-21-2022, 07:01 AM
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#1
- FlexLex
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- FlexLex
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Any HVAC miscers?
Figured Id ask the tradie section here for some insight. If it gets me anywhere ill veno you for a 40 ounce and some gas station pizza.
-AC not working, Fan, AC, heat does not respond to Stat
-Error code on Payne furnace flashing 4-2: INDUCER OUTSIDE VALID SPEED RANGE
-Unsure why this would affect AC or furnace fan? This is a heating code?
-Dad thinks it may be the panel, any insight is helpful honestly this isnt my strong suit but do want to learn
Obv reps for helpful posts.
Be well *******s
-AC not working, Fan, AC, heat does not respond to Stat
-Error code on Payne furnace flashing 4-2: INDUCER OUTSIDE VALID SPEED RANGE
-Unsure why this would affect AC or furnace fan? This is a heating code?
-Dad thinks it may be the panel, any insight is helpful honestly this isnt my strong suit but do want to learn
Obv reps for helpful posts.
Be well *******s
Phila crew
Healthcare Crew
06-21-2022, 07:17 AM
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#2
Clean the inducer motor if it has buildup and check the wiring. Sometimes the code will reset if you disconnect the power for 5 minutes. If that doesn’t work it’s probably a circuit board problem and you will have to buy a new inducer.
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06-21-2022, 07:32 AM
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#3
- Leannoodle
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- Leannoodle
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Normally means the inducer didn't get up to full speed during pre purge on the last heat cycle. Power cycle the furnace and check the condensate drain tubing from the inducer to the condensate drain, then check the drain line for clogs, you may need to blow it out with compressed air.
Since it is getting pretty warm, you could power cycle it to clear the fault for now to get A/C, you don't need to worry about heat for a little while. If the power cycle doesn't get rid of the fault, you have an issue in the secondary control voltage somewhere in the furnace
Since it is getting pretty warm, you could power cycle it to clear the fault for now to get A/C, you don't need to worry about heat for a little while. If the power cycle doesn't get rid of the fault, you have an issue in the secondary control voltage somewhere in the furnace
06-21-2022, 07:38 AM
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#4
Originally Posted By Leannoodle⏩
Come on man forget the compressed air and just suck on it.Normally means the inducer didn't get up to full speed during pre purge on the last heat cycle. Power cycle the furnace and check the condensate drain tubing from the inducer to the condensate drain, then check the drain line for clogs, you may need to blow it out with compressed air.
Since it is getting pretty warm, you could power cycle it to clear the fault for now to get A/C, you don't need to worry about heat for a little while. If the power cycle doesn't get rid of the fault, you have an issue in the secondary control voltage somewhere in the furnace
Since it is getting pretty warm, you could power cycle it to clear the fault for now to get A/C, you don't need to worry about heat for a little while. If the power cycle doesn't get rid of the fault, you have an issue in the secondary control voltage somewhere in the furnace
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06-21-2022, 07:40 AM
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#5
- Leannoodle
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- Leannoodle
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Originally Posted By Doober4⏩
Its all fun and games until you suck out a dead mouse from a plugged condensate pipeCome on man forget the compressed air and just suck on it.
06-21-2022, 07:54 AM
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#6
- FlexLex
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- FlexLex
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Originally Posted By Doober4⏩
Gotcha. So if it codes--it wont start back up until the code is cleared?Clean the inducer motor if it has buildup and check the wiring. Sometimes the code will reset if you disconnect the power for 5 minutes. If that doesn’t work it’s probably a circuit board problem and you will have to buy a new inducer.
Circuit board and inducer would be the same issue--or is it if the inducer or bad, the circuit board could still be fine and vice versa?
Originally Posted By Leannoodle⏩
So this issue came on on its own--AC was working fine for a few weeks and then it just stopped. Heat was never switched on t all, dont know if this changes anything?Normally means the inducer didn't get up to full speed during pre purge on the last heat cycle. Power cycle the furnace and check the condensate drain tubing from the inducer to the condensate drain, then check the drain line for clogs, you may need to blow it out with compressed air.
Since it is getting pretty warm, you could power cycle it to clear the fault for now to get A/C, you don't need to worry about heat for a little while. If the power cycle doesn't get rid of the fault, you have an issue in the secondary control voltage somewhere in the furnace
Since it is getting pretty warm, you could power cycle it to clear the fault for now to get A/C, you don't need to worry about heat for a little while. If the power cycle doesn't get rid of the fault, you have an issue in the secondary control voltage somewhere in the furnace
Ill look into what a power cycle is and how to complete those steps later.
Thanks

Phila crew
Healthcare Crew
06-21-2022, 08:10 AM
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#7
Originally Posted By FlexLex⏩
I think the circuit board and inducer come together. Definitely check all the connections, see if the inducer is dirty, do what he said about the condensate/drain lines^.Gotcha. So if it codes--it wont start back up until the code is cleared?
Circuit board and inducer would be the same issue--or is it if the inducer or bad, the circuit board could still be fine and vice versa?
So this issue came on on its own--AC was working fine for a few weeks and then it just stopped. Heat was never switched on t all, dont know if this changes anything?
Ill look into what a power cycle is and how to complete those steps later.
Thanks
Circuit board and inducer would be the same issue--or is it if the inducer or bad, the circuit board could still be fine and vice versa?
So this issue came on on its own--AC was working fine for a few weeks and then it just stopped. Heat was never switched on t all, dont know if this changes anything?
Ill look into what a power cycle is and how to complete those steps later.
Thanks

Also is this an 80 or 90% furnace, is the exhaust PVC or metal
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06-27-2022, 06:49 AM
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#8
- FlexLex
- Registered User
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- FlexLex
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- Location: New Jersey, United States
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Hey guys, so bit of an update if anyone has any additional insight; again I know less than minimal on this but trying to learn
So ended up playing with connections, voltage measurements, etc. Basicallly found a fried 3A fuse. Replaced it--unit turned back on, fan at least. Turned AC on--fried fuse again. So something that cues the air to come on or something when the air turns on is frying this fuse in the board. It then throws the 4-2 code for the inducer whenever the fuse is fried.
Currently with COOL off and fan on the unit does not throw codes or fry fuse.
Is this a condenser issue? Or some type of wiring issue wit the cooling unit? It seems like it has to be electrical issue from something in the cooling unit after the fan/furnace
So ended up playing with connections, voltage measurements, etc. Basicallly found a fried 3A fuse. Replaced it--unit turned back on, fan at least. Turned AC on--fried fuse again. So something that cues the air to come on or something when the air turns on is frying this fuse in the board. It then throws the 4-2 code for the inducer whenever the fuse is fried.
Currently with COOL off and fan on the unit does not throw codes or fry fuse.
Is this a condenser issue? Or some type of wiring issue wit the cooling unit? It seems like it has to be electrical issue from something in the cooling unit after the fan/furnace
Phila crew
Healthcare Crew
06-27-2022, 08:59 AM
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#9
- Leannoodle
- Registered User
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- Leannoodle
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- Join Date: Dec 2014
- Location: Michigan, United States
- Age: 40
- Posts: 1,965
- Rep Power: 16978
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Originally Posted By FlexLex⏩
3 amp fuse is for control wiring, you probably have a grounded control wire between the condensing unit and the furnace or a bad compressor contactor coil. Ohm out the 24v connection to see if its open or grounded, if it is, repull the wire. If the 24v connection is fine, check out the coil of the compressor contactor which would be behind the small service panel of the condensing unit outdoors.Hey guys, so bit of an update if anyone has any additional insight; again I know less than minimal on this but trying to learn
So ended up playing with connections, voltage measurements, etc. Basicallly found a fried 3A fuse. Replaced it--unit turned back on, fan at least. Turned AC on--fried fuse again. So something that cues the air to come on or something when the air turns on is frying this fuse in the board. It then throws the 4-2 code for the inducer whenever the fuse is fried.
Currently with COOL off and fan on the unit does not throw codes or fry fuse.
Is this a condenser issue? Or some type of wiring issue wit the cooling unit? It seems like it has to be electrical issue from something in the cooling unit after the fan/furnace
So ended up playing with connections, voltage measurements, etc. Basicallly found a fried 3A fuse. Replaced it--unit turned back on, fan at least. Turned AC on--fried fuse again. So something that cues the air to come on or something when the air turns on is frying this fuse in the board. It then throws the 4-2 code for the inducer whenever the fuse is fried.
Currently with COOL off and fan on the unit does not throw codes or fry fuse.
Is this a condenser issue? Or some type of wiring issue wit the cooling unit? It seems like it has to be electrical issue from something in the cooling unit after the fan/furnace
Low voltage shorts are a pain to find, but relatively easy and cheap to fix
06-30-2022, 01:36 PM
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#10
Originally Posted By Leannoodle⏩
Yep check all of the low volt wiring that goes from the thermostat to the furnace and outdoor unit. Maybe a wire nut came loose or the insulation was rubbing on something and a wire is grounding out.3 amp fuse is for control wiring, you probably have a grounded control wire between the condensing unit and the furnace or a bad compressor contactor coil. Ohm out the 24v connection to see if its open or grounded, if it is, repull the wire. If the 24v connection is fine, check out the coil of the compressor contactor which would be behind the small service panel of the condensing unit outdoors.
Low voltage shorts are a pain to find, but relatively easy and cheap to fix
Low voltage shorts are a pain to find, but relatively easy and cheap to fix
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