Buying used tires is a lot like buying used shoes, you might not get a fungus but any alignment issues the previous vehicle had can be inherited from the tires. Not as big a deal as Chinese crap rock tires but it's something to be aware of other than the typical dryrot and age issues people talk about with used tires.

That sounds like suspension issues that cause uneven wear. Could also be the Death Wobble that some offroad vehicles get.

I was a teenager last time I went, and I heard they switched to KPH and all that non-moon landing, no superbowl winning, world war losing measurements. Good to know they are keeping there, but they need to switch back to gallon's gas because they are much less expensive than liters of petro. lol

Yea yea yea. Tires are important *******. We know. Obviously these cheap ass Chinese tires work well enough to get me to my destinations safely. So stop with ur fear mongering.For my everyday car, I would never buy used because a new cheap Chinese tire is only $70. It is cheap enough and reliable enough to where I don't have to worry about safety issues.

For more expensive tires, I can see why one might purchase it used.

I tear through tires so quickly with factory set aggressive toe settings (ISF), that I just can’t justify spending 250$ per tire when I chew the inner shoulder off in less that 20k.

If I had a normal car that could get 60k ish out of a tire, I would only buy quality new tires.

Who is the Tire King Bridgestone, Michelin, Pirelli?

Sea post #5.

i woke up yesterday with a flat. went to put air in it and air was seeping out of a hole in the side of the tire... did someone puncture it? seems like an odd place to get a hole.

Is Michelin the best tyre manufacturer ?

nah,tires are no joke,you get blowout and you might be lucky to get scratchless off expressway.
on my work truck ive used couple wally brand new dextero brand which last less than 5k miles and blew apart doing 60mph ,fortunately it was on the back of dually,so i got away.Also 3 or 4 blowouts with used top brand tires.
since then been using brand new trailer usage (dot doesnt approve)16ply steel corded all around instead of standart lt 10ply. zero hiccups in few years.
in regular car its only about 50 bucks per piece difference,why would you risk your life for 2 hunnids given current road conditions on most highways with all those potholes.

They are way up there, yes. I have only driven my parents cars that have Michelins. They are good. They are $$$

I go with Hankook. It is South Korean. They are good too and not too bad for price. Every car I have owned (edit @10 years ago) cost @ $250 per rears and @$200 per fronts....on the cheap.

I've got 2 thick scrws/nails in my tire and still driving with it. Safe?

Just had michelin pilot sport 4 fitted to the front. They were expensive - how do you rate that particular tyre?

We simply don't know how you took care of your tires.

You only get a blow out if you let your tires get bad enough to the point of blowout. They don't just simply blow up like that. But they blow up for the following:

-Overinflation
-Underinflation
-Old tires
-damaged tires(from running flat)

If your tire is overinflated and you hit a bump, it may blow.
If your tire is underinflated, it blows because the tire heats. What happens then is that the rubber and metal mesh comes apart due to heat.
Another way it blows is that you didn't repair the tire properly when it got the flat. The area where the nail hit has become weak over time and gives out.
Or you drove on the tire while it was flat. The sidewalls of the tires got crushed while it was flat which compromises the entire tire.

You will commonly see 16 wheelers get a blowout because they have 16 wheels to check. People don't even check 4 tires let alone 16. These trucks are under a lot of load too. And with 16 tires vs 4, you have 12x more chances of hitting a nail, not including the larger width of semi tires.Its not safe. You can drive on it for a short time but the area where the nail hit is compromised. The damage will spread out from this area and eventually the tire will fail. Air will continue to leak from this puncture. Water will enter and corrode the metal parts of your rims and tires. And as you drive, the tire will be constantly underinflated, which causes uneven wear, which also cause heat build up, which will then ultimately end in a blowout.



That is why you should get that cheapest tire for a DD. Tires go through a major amount of damage in a short amount of time. You just need 3-5 years out of a tire. The cheapest tires can and will stand up to the beating of 3-5 years of driving, or 40k miles.

TUNA 2020

lol

smh

Tires are the last place you should cheap out.

They are the only safety feature on your car that actually touches the ground and has a huge impact on safety.

Are there overpriced tires? Of course there are.

But do your own research on what are the most important features to you and then research a tire that has those and look at as many customer reviews and customer sites and testing sites (not paid off "testing" magazines or shows that are bought off) and get the best ones you can afford.

There's also never going to be a "best tire" because it depends on your situation. What makes a tire perform better in wet conditions makes it perform worse in dry conditions. What makes it perform better on ice makes it perform worse in deep snow. What makes it handle and grip really well in dry or wet or snowy conditions means the tire life will suffer.

I run Hankook Dynapro ATM on my F150 because they came with the truck. I like them but I'll need to really consider my options when they need replacing because they are on 20's so will make finding a replacement harder/more expensive. I also run dedicated winters which are Firestone Winterforce 2's. Nothing beats dedicated winters for winter performance.

You do seem like a Douche CAnoe. I bet people are putting nails under your tire ya dork

If I jack my car up on one side for a week straight the other side tire pressure usually goes down by like 10 psi.

Is that normal (bc of extra weight focused on one side) or are my wheels all bent

Thank you

Your wheels should be fine but you should get a new pair of cheap tires because each tire has a maximum load limit. Tires in good condition only lose 1 psi a month.

If you continue to drive on old damaged tires, its going to give you a headache because you'll keep having to air it up.

theres a bump the zise of a testicle on the side of my pirelli tire, wot do

been there for 3 months

For a bulge to be there probably meant that you hit something really hard.

That tire is long overdue to be replaced. Because its a ticking time bomb.

And like I keep telling you *******s, tires take a beating every fookn year. Thats why you want the cheapest tire you can get. That set of expensive Pirellis is now useless because a new tire would upset the balance of the vehicle.

TUNA 2020

Ok so a few months ago my car was shaking really badly at highway speeds. I go to Firestone where I've bought all my tires to get an alignment. They tell me that my rear tires are worn super unevenly (inside is really worn down, outside not at all). Keep in mind these rear tires are only about a year old. They recommend that I buy new rear tires. I think they said the average wear (in the center of the tire) was right at 1/2 worn down.

Would this not be their fault that the tires wore down like that and shouldn't that be covered by the warranty? I mean they installed them in the first place. I told them to fuk off and still have the weirdly worn tires on but I'm not driving much rn anyways. Should I ask for them to help reimburse for the new tires?

Your alignment is chit, too much negative camber. Not their fault

The equivalent would be dragging your feet everywhere and thinking it's the shoe salesman's fault your shoes wore out quickly

I get the alignment was bad but wouldn't it be their responsibility to check that when they're replacing tires? I mean wouldn't they at least notice and ask if I wanted an alignment and warm me that they were gonna wear weird? Maybe not, I really don't know how it works

If you get the alignment done don't be upset when they don't notice you need an oil change.

2009 Toyota corolla TPMS sensor took a ****, do i need a programmer to install this or is there a non programming TPMS system out there?

The thing is, youre also liable for proper inflation and care of the tire. If you didn't inflate it correctly, it could've cause the uneven thread worn pattern. So it might be lying to sell you some tires, but they arn't entirely at fault.

If you do get a reimburstment, you'd probably get only half or even less.

I don't deal with TPMS. Those things are for poocies. Once you learn the importance and how to care for tires properly, you won't need the expensive TPMS system.

I don't think it was an under inflation issue because I watch that pretty closely. I have alloy wheels that always corrode and leak air so I'm always checking that. I think the alignment was just bad. But that's two people in this thread saying it's not the shop's fault so I'll forget about it.

*tire expertise gained by driving a 98 geo prizm