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» Official Misc Photography Crew, Part V "Do you even shoot?"
01-04-2022, 09:12 AM
#3271
Originally Posted By Smithers115⏩
from the research I've done, it doesn't appear to be a progression. once the shutter hits its expectancy it just fails outright, one time.
ya I was looking at nikons site and it said the d810 is good for 500k clicks, just not sure when things start to go funky. like if there's a difference between 50k vs 150k clicks other than life expectancy
so you *should* be able to get the some experience whether it has 50k vs 150k clicks as long as the shutter is still working
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01-04-2022, 09:21 AM
#3272
my favorite recent shot for a new industrial ergonomics company
anybody else doing commercial work? i'm with small bizs under my own umbrella
anybody else doing commercial work? i'm with small bizs under my own umbrella
01-06-2022, 07:44 AM
#3273
Originally Posted By Skeptical_Hippo⏩
in for updates on the R5 and if it was worth the price. considering getting one meself
Just pulled the trigger on an R5 HNNNNNNNNNNNNNNGG
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01-06-2022, 08:13 AM
#3274
Originally Posted By friesbruh⏩
absolutely worth the price, and you can find them used for like $3000 now that tons of people are upgrading to R3's.
in for updates on the R5 and if it was worth the price. considering getting one meself
I sold my R5 + battery grip + 5 batteries for $3800 shipped
make sure if you get an R5 that you get one on firmware 1.4 or older. DO NOT UPGRADE TO FIRMWARE 1.5.
hundreds of reports of it making the autofocus unusable. it was like going back to Fuji. so glad my R3 came in when it did
two of my recent favorites with the R3 + 600mm f4 + 1.4x (840mm f5.6)
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01-09-2022, 10:51 AM
#3275
not digging the R3 very much anymore. The 45MP of the R5 is just too good
it's super sad because I sold my R5 last week, and then 2 days ago I had a chance to buy 3 different R5s for between $3,000 - $3,300 and missed them all. may have to pay $3,600 now
plus trying to sell the R3 isn't going as well as expected since there's shipping, insurance, and paypal fees to be accounted for
it's super sad because I sold my R5 last week, and then 2 days ago I had a chance to buy 3 different R5s for between $3,000 - $3,300 and missed them all. may have to pay $3,600 now
plus trying to sell the R3 isn't going as well as expected since there's shipping, insurance, and paypal fees to be accounted for
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01-10-2022, 05:26 PM
#3276
sold my R3 for $6800 and picked up an R5 for $3200
now begins the wait for the R1 launch in Q3 2022. looking forward to the R3 AF + 30 FPS + 40 MP or greater.
and strangely enough, this R5 also has firmware 1.5 which gave me tons of issues on mine, but so far in testing it is working great
now begins the wait for the R1 launch in Q3 2022. looking forward to the R3 AF + 30 FPS + 40 MP or greater.
and strangely enough, this R5 also has firmware 1.5 which gave me tons of issues on mine, but so far in testing it is working great
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01-10-2022, 05:33 PM
#3277
Originally Posted By PositiveCrew⏩
sold my R3 for $6800 and picked up an R5 for $3200
now begins the wait for the R1 launch in Q3 2022. looking forward to the R3 AF + 30 FPS + 40 MP or greater.
and strangely enough, this R5 also has firmware 1.5 which gave me tons of issues on mine, but so far in testing it is working great
now begins the wait for the R1 launch in Q3 2022. looking forward to the R3 AF + 30 FPS + 40 MP or greater.
and strangely enough, this R5 also has firmware 1.5 which gave me tons of issues on mine, but so far in testing it is working great
1.5 never gave me any issues
01-12-2022, 01:20 AM
#3278
Originally Posted By PositiveCrew⏩
Was it the MP count that put you off the R3? Considering you are doing very long range shots and probably cropping in post, that will always be an issue. Have you ever considered the FUJI Medium Format cameras like the GFX 100S?
not digging the R3 very much anymore. The 45MP of the R5 is just too good
it's super sad because I sold my R5 last week, and then 2 days ago I had a chance to buy 3 different R5s for between $3,000 - $3,300 and missed them all. may have to pay $3,600 now
plus trying to sell the R3 isn't going as well as expected since there's shipping, insurance, and paypal fees to be accounted for
it's super sad because I sold my R5 last week, and then 2 days ago I had a chance to buy 3 different R5s for between $3,000 - $3,300 and missed them all. may have to pay $3,600 now
plus trying to sell the R3 isn't going as well as expected since there's shipping, insurance, and paypal fees to be accounted for
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01-12-2022, 08:06 AM
#3279
Originally Posted By Porridgemonster⏩
yeah it was the MP. every R3 picture required a ton of editing to get even close to the image quality of the R5.
Was it the MP count that put you off the R3? Considering you are doing very long range shots and probably cropping in post, that will always be an issue. Have you ever considered the FUJI Medium Format cameras like the GFX 100S?
also just the poor price to performance in general. I could have 2 R5s or 1 R3 for the same cost. and the R3 doesn't compete at all when put up against a Sony A1 or Nikon Z9.
I started with an all Fuji system, but they are extremely limited for telephoto lenses, so I don't expect I'll ever get a medium format from them.
rumors for 2022 include a Canon R7 APS-C (crop mode) which would be good for wildlife, and a Canon R5S which is supposed to be a 70-120MP version of the R5.
either of those rumored additions, or the R1 if it ever comes out, will probably be good choices
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01-12-2022, 03:24 PM
#3280
for all the avcels
a polar air cargo / dhl boeing 747-400 reg n452pa climbs out of klax, los angeles international airport from rwy 25L bound for kcvg, cincinnati ohio
day trip to LAX to shoot
eos r, sigma 60-600
a polar air cargo / dhl boeing 747-400 reg n452pa climbs out of klax, los angeles international airport from rwy 25L bound for kcvg, cincinnati ohio
day trip to LAX to shoot
eos r, sigma 60-600
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01-12-2022, 08:34 PM
#3281
A little washed out, I can't think of why off the top of my head but my camera setting definitely appear to be a bit off but I like the content and proportions of the photograph.
I'll eventually post the full setting when I get a chance.
Shot on a Nikon d3500 with a Nikkor 15-55mm though.
Edit; 1/60 F4 ISO 100 Focal Length 20mm
11/28/2019
East Garfield Park, Chicago's West Side.
I'll eventually post the full setting when I get a chance.
Shot on a Nikon d3500 with a Nikkor 15-55mm though.
Edit; 1/60 F4 ISO 100 Focal Length 20mm
11/28/2019
East Garfield Park, Chicago's West Side.
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01-13-2022, 09:56 AM
#3282
Originally Posted By Realclout⏩
A little? lol, this is straight BLOWN OUT. Over exposed to the point of not being able to recover any detail through any editing apps.
A little washed out,
I can't think of why off the top of my head but my camera setting definitely appear to be a bit off but I like the content and proportions of the photograph.
I'll eventually post the full setting when I get a chance.
Shot on a Nikon d3500 with a Nikkor 15-55mm though.
I'll eventually post the full setting when I get a chance.
Shot on a Nikon d3500 with a Nikkor 15-55mm though.
"It won't get better, just different."
01-13-2022, 10:03 AM
#3283
Originally Posted By chino3⏩
I think I had my white balance or Shutter was off. Just one pic and Better then anything I have seen you post. I still like it personally.
A little? lol, this is straight BLOWN OUT. Over exposed to the point of not being able to recover any detail through any editing apps.
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01-13-2022, 10:06 AM
#3284
Hey brahs.
Could you hook me up with some absolutely beginner material/knowledge and possibly recommend some basic equipment I could look up to get started? Just as a hobby, nothing serious or for profit, want to take up hiking after moving countries and thought it would be a neat side activity.
Keep in mind I'm a total retard at the level of *point iPhone at thing*, "ok that looks cool", *take pic*, "huh, neat". Any tips would be welcome, really. Got a friend who works as a part time photographer, will talk to him as well, just thought I would pop in if I'm miscing anyway.
Thanks in advance, guys.
Could you hook me up with some absolutely beginner material/knowledge and possibly recommend some basic equipment I could look up to get started? Just as a hobby, nothing serious or for profit, want to take up hiking after moving countries and thought it would be a neat side activity.
Keep in mind I'm a total retard at the level of *point iPhone at thing*, "ok that looks cool", *take pic*, "huh, neat". Any tips would be welcome, really. Got a friend who works as a part time photographer, will talk to him as well, just thought I would pop in if I'm miscing anyway.
Thanks in advance, guys.
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01-13-2022, 11:05 AM
#3285
Originally Posted By Realclout⏩
fukkin lmao. Too funny that you got ran out of the trading thread, and now you're spreading your retardation to other threads. pls go lol
I think I had my white balance or
Shutter off
. Just one pic and Better then anything I have seen you post. I still like it personally.
"It won't get better, just different."
01-13-2022, 11:21 AM
#3286
Originally Posted By chino3⏩
I didn't get run out of anywhere you dumb INKIE loser, I could run circles around those LOW IQ "Investors"
fukkin lmao. Too funny that you got ran out of the trading thread, and now you're spreading your retardation to other threads. pls go lol
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01-13-2022, 11:36 AM
#3287
Originally Posted By Realclout⏩
I'd love to see you do it. Take a picture of your results, just remember to turn your shutter on…
I didn't get run out of anywhere you dumb INKIE loser. I could run circles around those LOW IQ "investors"
"It won't get better, just different."
01-13-2022, 12:07 PM
#3288
Originally Posted By chino3⏩
Imagine thinking you got me because I made I typo, Truly a sub-human. It is okay to admit you're a pathetic loser and I am better then you, I don't think less of you but it is embarrassing considering your behavior.
I'd love to see you do it. Take a picture of your results, just remember to turn your shutter on…
It would be easy, Have you even read more then one post in that group those retards could pick an ETF and Still lose money. They FUNDAMENTALLY lack any knowledge or Necessary understanding to properly invest in anything beside their Netflix membership.
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01-13-2022, 12:10 PM
#3289
Originally Posted By friesbruh⏩
Thanks a lot brah, get you on the recharge!
for some basics check out fro knows photo or jared polin on yt or another channel called tony & chelsea
for gear figure out what you want to shoot so if its mostly hiking and landscapes then youll live in the 14-35mm focal lengths.
in terms of lenses they can be IS or non-IS, manual or autofocus and fstop minimums from 2-8ish.
basics:
IS - image stabilization is goat
AF - auto focus is generally better than non auto
fstop/aperatures - the lower the better. 2.8 is common. on higher end lenses. it has a shallow depth of field but lets in more light.
how that plays out in the real world is using a quicker shutter speed and less iso
for example the above 747 i took last week, that was shot at about an f/4.5ish. had that been an f/5 f/6 f/7 etc, letting in less light, youd have to compensate by slowing the shutter speed, letting in more light, but then you get more motion blur, or not as sharp pics, or you have to bump up the iso, but now ur pic is grainy. just look up the exposure triangle.
in terms of equipment for your set up and being new to it, i recommend the EOS R or RP ($1000-1800), a 14-15mm prime f2.8 AF lens ($500) and a nice zoom, sigma 70-200 f2.8 ($1100). all prices i put were what i found them for.
that said if you know youll never need anything more than 35mm, the canon EF 16-35 f4 is usm is an excellent lens for landscapes and if you bought that lens and a used EOS RP for like $900, youd be in it for $1600 total and wood have a nice set up.
all depends on how much money you wanna throw at it.
my setup is an-
eos R
sigma ef 60-600 f/5-8
sigma ef 70-200 f/2.8
sigma ef 24-70 f/2.8
canon ef 85mm f1.8 (i think)
canon ef 50mm f1.8
canon ef 8-15mm fisheye f/4
wanna get that RF 15-35 2.8 IS doe
for gear figure out what you want to shoot so if its mostly hiking and landscapes then youll live in the 14-35mm focal lengths.
in terms of lenses they can be IS or non-IS, manual or autofocus and fstop minimums from 2-8ish.
basics:
IS - image stabilization is goat
AF - auto focus is generally better than non auto
fstop/aperatures - the lower the better. 2.8 is common. on higher end lenses. it has a shallow depth of field but lets in more light.
how that plays out in the real world is using a quicker shutter speed and less iso
for example the above 747 i took last week, that was shot at about an f/4.5ish. had that been an f/5 f/6 f/7 etc, letting in less light, youd have to compensate by slowing the shutter speed, letting in more light, but then you get more motion blur, or not as sharp pics, or you have to bump up the iso, but now ur pic is grainy. just look up the exposure triangle.
in terms of equipment for your set up and being new to it, i recommend the EOS R or RP ($1000-1800), a 14-15mm prime f2.8 AF lens ($500) and a nice zoom, sigma 70-200 f2.8 ($1100). all prices i put were what i found them for.
that said if you know youll never need anything more than 35mm, the canon EF 16-35 f4 is usm is an excellent lens for landscapes and if you bought that lens and a used EOS RP for like $900, youd be in it for $1600 total and wood have a nice set up.
all depends on how much money you wanna throw at it.
my setup is an-
eos R
sigma ef 60-600 f/5-8
sigma ef 70-200 f/2.8
sigma ef 24-70 f/2.8
canon ef 85mm f1.8 (i think)
canon ef 50mm f1.8
canon ef 8-15mm fisheye f/4
wanna get that RF 15-35 2.8 IS doe
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01-13-2022, 01:03 PM
#3290
Originally Posted By BraneyGumble⏩
I'd get a Sony A7C with the Tamron Tifecta
Hey brahs.
Could you hook me up with some absolutely beginner material/knowledge and possibly recommend some basic equipment I could look up to get started? Just as a hobby, nothing serious or for profit, want to take up hiking after moving countries and thought it would be a neat side activity.
Keep in mind I'm a total retard at the level of *point iPhone at thing*, "ok that looks cool", *take pic*, "huh, neat". Any tips would be welcome, really. Got a friend who works as a part time photographer, will talk to him as well, just thought I would pop in if I'm miscing anyway.
Thanks in advance, guys.
Could you hook me up with some absolutely beginner material/knowledge and possibly recommend some basic equipment I could look up to get started? Just as a hobby, nothing serious or for profit, want to take up hiking after moving countries and thought it would be a neat side activity.
Keep in mind I'm a total retard at the level of *point iPhone at thing*, "ok that looks cool", *take pic*, "huh, neat". Any tips would be welcome, really. Got a friend who works as a part time photographer, will talk to him as well, just thought I would pop in if I'm miscing anyway.
Thanks in advance, guys.
Tamron 17-28 (Landscapes)
Tamron 28-75 (Portraits)
Tamron 75-180 (Sports)
Look on YouTube about :
Composition/ Framing (Rule of Thrids, Leading Lines, Negative Space, Etc…)
Lighting
ISO/ Aperture/ Shutter Speed
Focal Lengths
Go to any art museum and the paintings (At least Renaissance era) at least follow Compostion/ Framing and Lighting.
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01-13-2022, 06:17 PM
#3291
One more Rep!! Yea!
[]D [] []v[] []D
01-13-2022, 06:18 PM
#3292
One more Rep!! Yea!
[]D [] []v[] []D
01-13-2022, 07:38 PM
#3293
Originally Posted By Realclout⏩
The rest of the misc might be a dumpster fire but let's keep it clean in here.
A little washed out, I can't think of why off the top of my head but my camera setting definitely appear to be a bit off but I like the content and proportions of the photograph.
">
I'll eventually post the full setting when I get a chance.
Shot on a Nikon d3500 with a Nikkor 15-55mm though.
">
I'll eventually post the full setting when I get a chance.
Shot on a Nikon d3500 with a Nikkor 15-55mm though.
Even though technology has advanced to a point where practically everyone these days can call themselves a photographer I still think it's worth employing old school methods that will deliver consistent results once you understand them.
Are you shooting raw? To begin with find out how much headroom your camera has in the highlights at a given ISO by filling the frame with an evenly lit grey card and seeing how many stops above that exposure you can still recover detail from in raw. This is important to get the most out of your sensor and consistent results.
Once you've established that simply spot meter the brightest part of the frame you want to preserve detail in (taking into account specular highlights) — watching the meter to find it and take advantage of zooming in if you can so the spot is more accurate — and then open up from there as many stops as you established earlier e.g. +2EV. This way you will always protect the highlights while still maximizing dynamic range in the shadows when you need it.
A camera giving you a JPEG histogram with a picture control baked in is never going to be a reliable way to measure clipped highlights and unless you're at low ISO with a sensor that retains a lot of clean shadow detail to recover in post then you'll probably be throwing dynamic range away if you're dialing in underxposure to avoid blowing out highlights.
I have spot metering assigned to a function button on my camera so I can quickly meter highlights, lock in an exposure, and dial in compensation. I stubbornly used full manual for a long time and still use it for landscapes and flash but I've come to appreciate the benefits of aperture priority with AE-L (exposure lock) for everything else.
01-14-2022, 03:57 AM
#3294
Originally Posted By BraneyGumble⏩
IMO composition is everything really when it comes to a nice photo. Nowadays with advanced digital camera people stress about the small stuff like sharpness and pixel count, but photographers have been taking amazing photos with basic analogue film for decades, relying on composition and emotion. Check out composition tutorials on youtube, here is a really nice one which shows the overall techniques.
Hey brahs.
Could you hook me up with some absolutely beginner material/knowledge and possibly recommend some basic equipment I could look up to get started? Just as a hobby, nothing serious or for profit, want to take up hiking after moving countries and thought it would be a neat side activity.
Keep in mind I'm a total retard at the level of *point iPhone at thing*, "ok that looks cool", *take pic*, "huh, neat". Any tips would be welcome, really. Got a friend who works as a part time photographer, will talk to him as well, just thought I would pop in if I'm miscing anyway.
Thanks in advance, guys.
Could you hook me up with some absolutely beginner material/knowledge and possibly recommend some basic equipment I could look up to get started? Just as a hobby, nothing serious or for profit, want to take up hiking after moving countries and thought it would be a neat side activity.
Keep in mind I'm a total retard at the level of *point iPhone at thing*, "ok that looks cool", *take pic*, "huh, neat". Any tips would be welcome, really. Got a friend who works as a part time photographer, will talk to him as well, just thought I would pop in if I'm miscing anyway.
Thanks in advance, guys.
Also I'd go over the basics of how cameras work so you understand how your camera body and lens interact to create the desired effect you want. The video below on Aperture is really well explained and the channel has other videos on ISO, Shutter Speed and Focal Length.
EDIT: Also don't get fixed on the idea that you 'need' a certain type of equipment for what you want to do. People recommend 16-35mm wide lens for Landscapes as it allows you to capture a wide space, but in reality there are many great shots that can be made with very long focal lengths. Most of the shots I've taken in the dolomites are at the higher 65mm range. My advice would be to get a zoom lens as a starter so you can experience most ranges and have the flexibility to figure out what you enjoy shooting.
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01-14-2022, 12:04 PM
#3295
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
That guy just follows me around like a dog, Mate.
The rest of the misc might be a dumpster fire but let's keep it clean in here.
Even though technology has advanced to a point where practically everyone these days can call themselves a photographer I still think it's worth employing old school methods that will deliver consistent results once you understand them.
Are you shooting raw? To begin with find out how much headroom your camera has in the highlights at a given ISO by filling the frame with an evenly lit grey card and seeing how many stops above that exposure you can still recover detail from in raw. This is important to get the most out of your sensor and consistent results.
Once you've established that simply spot meter the brightest part of the frame you want to preserve detail in (taking into account specular highlights) — watching the meter to find it and take advantage of zooming in if you can so the spot is more accurate — and then open up from there as many stops as you established earlier e.g. +2EV. This way you will always protect the highlights while still maximizing dynamic range in the shadows when you need it.
A camera giving you a JPEG histogram with a picture control baked in is never going to be a reliable way to measure clipped highlights and unless you're at low ISO with a sensor that retains a lot of clean shadow detail to recover in post then you'll probably be throwing dynamic range away if you're dialing in underxposure to avoid blowing out highlights.
I have spot metering assigned to a function button on my camera so I can quickly meter highlights, lock in an exposure, and dial in compensation. I stubbornly used full manual for a long time and still use it for landscapes and flash but I've come to appreciate the benefits of aperture priority with AE-L (exposure lock) for everything else.
Even though technology has advanced to a point where practically everyone these days can call themselves a photographer I still think it's worth employing old school methods that will deliver consistent results once you understand them.
Are you shooting raw? To begin with find out how much headroom your camera has in the highlights at a given ISO by filling the frame with an evenly lit grey card and seeing how many stops above that exposure you can still recover detail from in raw. This is important to get the most out of your sensor and consistent results.
Once you've established that simply spot meter the brightest part of the frame you want to preserve detail in (taking into account specular highlights) — watching the meter to find it and take advantage of zooming in if you can so the spot is more accurate — and then open up from there as many stops as you established earlier e.g. +2EV. This way you will always protect the highlights while still maximizing dynamic range in the shadows when you need it.
A camera giving you a JPEG histogram with a picture control baked in is never going to be a reliable way to measure clipped highlights and unless you're at low ISO with a sensor that retains a lot of clean shadow detail to recover in post then you'll probably be throwing dynamic range away if you're dialing in underxposure to avoid blowing out highlights.
I have spot metering assigned to a function button on my camera so I can quickly meter highlights, lock in an exposure, and dial in compensation. I stubbornly used full manual for a long time and still use it for landscapes and flash but I've come to appreciate the benefits of aperture priority with AE-L (exposure lock) for everything else.
I agree completely, I even admitted it was not the best photograph and Stated the exact reason why. I started shooting on black and White film and Developing it for what it is worth I am not some point and Click ding-dong.
Yeah, First thing I did was put the camera in raw. Interesting, Usually, I don't need to change the ISO to often and I try to get the setting right first "old-school" as you mentioned I can't stand people who use post-edit as a way to justify their terrible skill-set as you mentioned everybody can claim to be a photographer now-a-days
I always spot meter the center, That is how I was taught. I will use the matrix grid to enhance my manual focus / proportions.
Yeah, I am full manual-masterrace. I could see for wildlife or Sports where you only have a split second to get the setting right to use automatic functions but I feel like it kinda takes the piss overall.
I'll post some better ones just wait, Personally. I like the photograph despite being blown out.
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01-14-2022, 12:19 PM
#3296
11/28/2019
Nikon d3500 Nikkor 18-55mm 1/125 F4 ISO 180 Focal Legnth 18mm
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01-18-2022, 01:27 AM
#3297
Originally Posted By Realclout⏩
I don't get why in 2022 people are bragging about shooting full manual all the time, that's dumb and a waste of time in 90% of scenarios… And you're posting bad exposures whilst also saying it cheating to correct in post and that you just get it right in camera
That guy just follows me around like a dog, Mate.
I agree completely, I even admitted it was not the best photograph and Stated the exact reason why. I started shooting on black and White film and Developing it for what it is worth I am not some point and Click ding-dong.
Yeah, First thing I did was put the camera in raw. Interesting, Usually, I don't need to change the ISO to often and I try to get the setting right first "old-school" as you mentioned I can't stand people who use post-edit as a way to justify their terrible skill-set as you mentioned everybody can claim to be a photographer now-a-days
I always spot meter the center, That is how I was taught. I will use the matrix grid to enhance my manual focus / proportions.
Yeah, I am full manual-masterrace. I could see for wildlife or Sports where you only have a split second to get the setting right to use automatic functions but I feel like it kinda takes the piss overall.
I'll post some better ones just wait, Personally. I like the photograph despite being blown out.
I agree completely, I even admitted it was not the best photograph and Stated the exact reason why. I started shooting on black and White film and Developing it for what it is worth I am not some point and Click ding-dong.
Yeah, First thing I did was put the camera in raw. Interesting, Usually, I don't need to change the ISO to often and I try to get the setting right first "old-school" as you mentioned I can't stand people who use post-edit as a way to justify their terrible skill-set as you mentioned everybody can claim to be a photographer now-a-days
I always spot meter the center, That is how I was taught. I will use the matrix grid to enhance my manual focus / proportions.
Yeah, I am full manual-masterrace. I could see for wildlife or Sports where you only have a split second to get the setting right to use automatic functions but I feel like it kinda takes the piss overall.
I'll post some better ones just wait, Personally. I like the photograph despite being blown out.
Why not just shoot analog if you're going to be pretentious instead of a kit lens on a 3500? Knowing how to shoot manual is fundamental and can be useful in reasonably controlled environments alongside workflow imnprovment ie editing 40 pics in the same setting, but why cripple yourself to shoot "old school"
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- Smithers115
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- Smithers115
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01-18-2022, 02:22 PM
#3298
Originally Posted By Smithers115⏩
Seethe harder, Just buy a point and Shoot you soccer mom photographer. You mad my RAW photos in MANUAL are better then your heavily edited AUTO photographs on you 5k P.O.S cannon. Yeah, You mad.
I don't get why in 2022 people are bragging about shooting full manual all the time, that's dumb and a waste of time in 90% of scenarios… And you're posting bad exposures whilst also saying it cheating to correct in post and that you just get it right in camera
Why not just shoot analog if you're going to be pretentious instead of a kit lens on a 3500? Knowing how to shoot manual is fundamental and can be useful in reasonably controlled environments alongside workflow imnprovment ie editing 40 pics in the same setting, but why cripple yourself to shoot "old school"
Why not just shoot analog if you're going to be pretentious instead of a kit lens on a 3500? Knowing how to shoot manual is fundamental and can be useful in reasonably controlled environments alongside workflow imnprovment ie editing 40 pics in the same setting, but why cripple yourself to shoot "old school"
Imagine taking better pics in FULL manual ON an ENTRY level DSLR compared to YOUR life DENYING reality of CHIT tier photographs on a HIGH-end set-up in FULL-auto like MY gma.
Just LOL srs.
- Keep the misc great again
- Watch my poo flush while holding the plunger to make sure I don't flood the bathroom crew.
- You can be REALCLOUT too VIA the REALCLOUT text GENERATOR sponsored BY miscmathematician SRS
Click here —————-> https://js.do/caffeinatedlogic/50858
The world is YOURS boyos.
01-18-2022, 03:42 PM
#3299
Originally Posted By Smithers115⏩
We used to see the same thing with people desperately telling people a picture was taken on film. It is all cope because in the end all that matters is the end result. Unfortunately photography attracts gear fetishists with more money than skill.
I don't get why in 2022 people are bragging about shooting full manual all the time, that's dumb and a waste of time in 90% of scenarios… And you're posting bad exposures whilst also saying it cheating to correct in post and that you just get it right in camera
If you can't handle me when I'm incel, you don't deserve me when I'm chad
01-18-2022, 03:53 PM
#3300
I am a newbie in photography and i have a question
I was trying to take some pics over the weekend with my kid, i was at home inside and opened curtains for some light.
my kid was constantly moving and i couldn't get a good pics, any one have any suggestion on how to handle this situation to get good pics.
I have sony 24-70GM lens…..
I was trying to take some pics over the weekend with my kid, i was at home inside and opened curtains for some light.
my kid was constantly moving and i couldn't get a good pics, any one have any suggestion on how to handle this situation to get good pics.
I have sony 24-70GM lens…..
- Nothanksjeffery
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