09-30-2021, 10:09 AM
#1381
Originally Posted By rollerball⏩
12-54. The plan was Eb but I went up to standard.
what gauge? I'm thinking of going down to 9s
If you want my 2 cents on tone I think heavier strings have a stronger fundamental. With lighter strings you can hear more of the harmonic overtones which you could argue sounds better with distortion. Many classic recordings with 8s and 9s support that. Holdsworth played 8s and his tone wasn't thin at all. Each to their own. 11s is probably the sweet spot for me but I like 12s a lot. .020 is probably a touch too heavy for an unwound G and they can start to sound a bit dull higher up the neck. I might swap that for .019.
Quote
09-30-2021, 10:53 AM
#1382
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
yeah I'm curious about tone with distortion and facilitating my legato, is it possible to go from .11 to .9 without adjusting for intonation?
12-54. The plan was Eb but I went up to standard.
If you want my 2 cents on tone I think heavier strings have a stronger fundamental. With lighter strings you can hear more of the harmonic overtones which you could argue sounds better with distortion. Many classic recordings with 8s and 9s support that. Holdsworth played 8s and his tone wasn't thin at all. Each to their own. 11s is probably the sweet spot for me but I like 12s a lot. .020 is probably a touch too heavy for an unwound G and they can start to sound a bit dull higher up the neck. I might swap that for .019.
If you want my 2 cents on tone I think heavier strings have a stronger fundamental. With lighter strings you can hear more of the harmonic overtones which you could argue sounds better with distortion. Many classic recordings with 8s and 9s support that. Holdsworth played 8s and his tone wasn't thin at all. Each to their own. 11s is probably the sweet spot for me but I like 12s a lot. .020 is probably a touch too heavy for an unwound G and they can start to sound a bit dull higher up the neck. I might swap that for .019.
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09-30-2021, 11:22 AM
#1383
Dang Dom, you're right used guitars on reverb have gone through the roof. Used charvels like mine, which I purchased used, is going for like $300 over what I paid.
Tempted to sell the charvel and my martin OM28 and my hx stomp and buying a SERIOUS acoustic.
Tempted to sell the charvel and my martin OM28 and my hx stomp and buying a SERIOUS acoustic.
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09-30-2021, 11:47 AM
#1384
Originally Posted By rollerball⏩
It would need adjusting to get it spot on but I went from 11 to 12 without adjusting anything. Setup wise I try to get the nut as low as possible and with a locking nut it's easy — just add or remove shims. I don't mind a medium-high action, the guitar sounds better to me that way, but I can't live with a high nut.
yeah I'm curious about tone with distortion and facilitating my legato, is it possible to go from .11 to .9 without adjusting for intonation?
Originally Posted By rollerball⏩
It's wild out there. How's the Charvel compare to the Suhr?
Dang Dom, you're right used guitars on reverb have gone through the roof. Used charvels like mine, which I purchased used, is going for like $300 over what I paid.
Tempted to sell the charvel and my martin OM28 and my hx stomp and buying a SERIOUS acoustic.
Tempted to sell the charvel and my martin OM28 and my hx stomp and buying a SERIOUS acoustic.
09-30-2021, 12:18 PM
#1385
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
I didn't play the Suhr for a long time and just played the Charvel and the Ibanez but I just picked it up recently for the first time and I can't really deny the qualitative difference. It's like getting out of a standard car and going into one with a much higher level of chassis rigidity - it just feels more *solid* for lack of a better term. The feel and tone and all the little details just feels more stable and put together. Also, not sure if it's the pickups or what, but the Suhr tends to sound way better in terms of clean tone than any of my other guitars except for maybe the Gibson ES-335.
It would need adjusting to get it spot on but I went from 11 to 12 without adjusting anything. Setup wise I try to get the nut as low as possible and with a locking nut it's easy — just add or remove shims. I don't mind a medium-high action, the guitar sounds better to me that way, but I can't live with a high nut.
It's wild out there. How's the Charvel compare to the Suhr?
It's wild out there. How's the Charvel compare to the Suhr?
That being said my Suhr's neck is too curved and the last guy I brought it too barely made any adjustments claiming it was in the right tolerances or whatever after he took out his measuring tools - but I like a flatter neck with lower action. And I'm too paranoid to adjust it myself so don't even try to suggest doing so lol.
I feel like I'm gonna try to get $5K from selling gear and getting a Santa Cruz or a Collins.
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09-30-2021, 09:50 PM
#1386
Originally Posted By rollerball⏩
It might feel like working on a Ferrari but you can't do any harm adjusting it a 1/4 turn, checking relief using the bottom string as a straight edge, rinse repeat. Provided you're not cranking on it when it's maxed out or you use the wrong size tool and strip the nut, you'll be fine. Going down a string gauge or tuning down to Eb should straighten it out.
I didn't play the Suhr for a long time and just played the Charvel and the Ibanez but I just picked it up recently for the first time and I can't really deny the qualitative difference. It's like getting out of a standard car and going into one with a much higher level of chassis rigidity - it just feels more *solid* for lack of a better term. The feel and tone and all the little details just feels more stable and put together. Also, not sure if it's the pickups or what, but the Suhr tends to sound way better in terms of clean tone than any of my other guitars except for maybe the Gibson ES-335.
That being said my Suhr's neck is too curved and the last guy I brought it too barely made any adjustments claiming it was in the right tolerances or whatever after he took out his measuring tools - but I like a flatter neck with lower action. And I'm too paranoid to adjust it myself so don't even try to suggest doing so lol.
I feel like I'm gonna try to get $5K from selling gear and getting a Santa Cruz or a Collins.
That being said my Suhr's neck is too curved and the last guy I brought it too barely made any adjustments claiming it was in the right tolerances or whatever after he took out his measuring tools - but I like a flatter neck with lower action. And I'm too paranoid to adjust it myself so don't even try to suggest doing so lol.
I feel like I'm gonna try to get $5K from selling gear and getting a Santa Cruz or a Collins.
The reason a tech who's aware you're not doing regular adjustments might put a little extra relief in it is when it leaves a climate controlled room and humidity goes up (the wood expands) you won't end up with an unplayable guitar.
09-30-2021, 10:39 PM
#1387
Most guitars are made overseas by underpaid workers trying to get them out of the factory as quickly as possible, sit in a multitude of environments during warehousing and shipping, then either get buried in a storeroom or beaten up at the display floor until ihey're finally bought. They're tough things; unless you're completely clueless you can't hurt then.
Spend some time watching StewMac videos and you can get your guitar setup better than just about anything you'd get at retail. I can't play for ****, but I can at least buy something off Craigslist then flip it for a few hundred more just by having it clean with low action and level frets.
Spend some time watching StewMac videos and you can get your guitar setup better than just about anything you'd get at retail. I can't play for ****, but I can at least buy something off Craigslist then flip it for a few hundred more just by having it clean with low action and level frets.
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10-01-2021, 04:08 AM
#1388
Originally Posted By VTheKing⏩
Good points. I've seen comments on gear forums suggesting the higher end builders can't nail the sound of a Strat as if CNC'd planks and parts being fished out of bins by workers on a production line has some kind of magic. I wonder if it's because when you spend big bucks on a "boutique" guitar you handle it more delicately and play accordingly vs. a less expensive guitar.
Most guitars are made overseas by underpaid workers trying to get them out of the factory as quickly as possible, sit in a multitude of environments during warehousing and shipping, then either get buried in a storeroom or beaten up at the display floor until ihey're finally bought. They're tough things; unless you're completely clueless you can't hurt then.
Spend some time watching StewMac videos and you can get your guitar setup better than just about anything you'd get at retail. I can't play for ****, but I can at least buy something off Craigslist then flip it for a few hundred more just by having it clean with low action and level frets.
Spend some time watching StewMac videos and you can get your guitar setup better than just about anything you'd get at retail. I can't play for ****, but I can at least buy something off Craigslist then flip it for a few hundred more just by having it clean with low action and level frets.
Look at how Malmsteen stores his guitars. Lying in a pile or up against a wall. They're just tools to him like a screwdriver or hammer.
10-01-2021, 06:40 AM
#1389
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
Howdy Dom….
Look at how Malmsteen stores his guitars. Lying in a pile or up against a wall. They're just tools to him like a screwdriver or hammer.
Wow….I couldn't imagine storing a multitude of guitars that carelessly.
Good thing I only have (3) guitars…the (2) in my avatar which are a 1977 Ibanez Tele Silver Series, a 1973 Guild D40 Sunburst and a 1975 Masanori (Martin copy) acoustic.
Have a great weekend everyone.
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10-01-2021, 06:53 AM
#1390
Guitar setup work is really not that difficult, I even invested in a String Gauge and the Dan Erlewine book came with some Radius gauges for the neck. Although I will admit my local tech who helps me with fretwork is infinitely better at setting up guitars than I am. Idk how he does it. But before I change strings on my SG I need to take the measurements he set so I don’t forget. My SG is the best playing guitar I’ve ever held thanks to him
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10-01-2021, 07:43 AM
#1391
When it's possible I do the work on all my stuff 99.99% of the time. Vehicles, house or guitar, etc.
If I have to buy a tool for the job that's fine because now I have the tool for when I have to do the job again in the future.
Working on guitars is a hell of a lot more enjoyable than crawling under a dirty ass jeep tho
If I have to buy a tool for the job that's fine because now I have the tool for when I have to do the job again in the future.
Working on guitars is a hell of a lot more enjoyable than crawling under a dirty ass jeep tho
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10-01-2021, 08:53 AM
#1392
Interesting discussion
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10-01-2021, 11:34 PM
#1393
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
So by "tighten" does that mean for a curved neck in the concaved fretboard sense that I want to turn the truss clockwise to the right? I remember actually doing this previously on the Suhr and it seemed to improve the action but the curve is still more than I would like.
It might feel like working on a Ferrari but you can't do any harm adjusting it a 1/4 turn, checking relief using the bottom string as a straight edge, rinse repeat. Provided you're not cranking on it when it's maxed out or you use the wrong size tool and strip the nut, you'll be fine. Going down a string gauge or tuning down to Eb should straighten it out.
The reason a tech who's aware you're not doing regular adjustments might put a little extra relief in it is when it leaves a climate controlled room and humidity goes up (the wood expands) you won't end up with an unplayable guitar.
The reason a tech who's aware you're not doing regular adjustments might put a little extra relief in it is when it leaves a climate controlled room and humidity goes up (the wood expands) you won't end up with an unplayable guitar.
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10-02-2021, 01:22 AM
#1394
Originally Posted By rollerball⏩
Yes. Think of tightening truss rod as overcoming string tension to straighten the neck and loosening the truss rod to allow the string tension to take effect and put more relief in the neck. When humidity goes up the wood absorbs that moisture and expands which straightens the neck or goes into a backbow if it's already straight while when it's dry the wood contracts and puts more of a bow (relief) into it.
So by "tighten" does that mean for a curved neck in the concaved fretboard sense that I want to turn the truss clockwise to the right? I remember actually doing this previously on the Suhr and it seemed to improve the action but the curve is still more than I would like.
Take a guitar neck that was set up in a low humidity climate controlled room to be gun barrel straight with a low action. When you take it into conditions that are dripping with humidity the wood in the neck expands and is potentially unplayable with buzz until you a) give the truss rod a tweak counterclockwise to loosen it, b) go up a string gauge to increase the tension, or c) jack up the bridge height. Later when you return to low humidity the wood shrinks and you'll probably have too much relief so you've got to tighten it to straighten it back out again. Hopefully that makes sense.
10-02-2021, 12:45 PM
#1395
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
Thanks, that did make sense.
Yes. Think of tightening truss rod as overcoming string tension to straighten the neck and loosening the truss rod to allow the string tension to take effect and put more relief in the neck. When humidity goes up the wood absorbs that moisture and expands which straightens the neck or goes into a backbow if it's already straight while when it's dry the wood contracts and puts more of a bow (relief) into it.
Take a guitar neck that was set up in a low humidity climate controlled room to be gun barrel straight with a low action. When you take it into conditions that are dripping with humidity the wood in the neck expands and is potentially unplayable with buzz until you a) give the truss rod a tweak counterclockwise to loosen it, b) go up a string gauge to increase the tension, or c) jack up the bridge height. Later when you return to low humidity the wood shrinks and you'll probably have too much relief so you've got to tighten it to straighten it back out again. Hopefully that makes sense.
Take a guitar neck that was set up in a low humidity climate controlled room to be gun barrel straight with a low action. When you take it into conditions that are dripping with humidity the wood in the neck expands and is potentially unplayable with buzz until you a) give the truss rod a tweak counterclockwise to loosen it, b) go up a string gauge to increase the tension, or c) jack up the bridge height. Later when you return to low humidity the wood shrinks and you'll probably have too much relief so you've got to tighten it to straighten it back out again. Hopefully that makes sense.
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10-04-2021, 07:41 AM
#1396
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
It can also just swell the fretboard and raise the frets.
Yes. Think of tightening truss rod as overcoming string tension to straighten the neck and loosening the truss rod to allow the string tension to take effect and put more relief in the neck. When humidity goes up the wood absorbs that moisture and expands which straightens the neck or goes into a backbow if it's already straight while when it's dry the wood contracts and puts more of a bow (relief) into it.
Take a guitar neck that was set up in a low humidity climate controlled room to be gun barrel straight with a low action. When you take it into conditions that are dripping with humidity the wood in the neck expands and is potentially unplayable with buzz until you a) give the truss rod a tweak counterclockwise to loosen it, b) go up a string gauge to increase the tension, or c) jack up the bridge height. Later when you return to low humidity the wood shrinks and you'll probably have too much relief so you've got to tighten it to straighten it back out again. Hopefully that makes sense.
Take a guitar neck that was set up in a low humidity climate controlled room to be gun barrel straight with a low action. When you take it into conditions that are dripping with humidity the wood in the neck expands and is potentially unplayable with buzz until you a) give the truss rod a tweak counterclockwise to loosen it, b) go up a string gauge to increase the tension, or c) jack up the bridge height. Later when you return to low humidity the wood shrinks and you'll probably have too much relief so you've got to tighten it to straighten it back out again. Hopefully that makes sense.
I had a soloist in my living room, left the sliding door cracked. I rained that night and the next day it wouldn't play, took 3 days in the back room to come back to normal.
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10-04-2021, 08:32 AM
#1397
Originally Posted By ctgblue⏩
I could see it being a real nightmare with acoustic guitars.
It can also just swell the fretboard and raise the frets.
I had a soloist in my living room, left the sliding door cracked. I rained that night and the next day it wouldn't play, took 3 days in the back room to come back to normal.
I had a soloist in my living room, left the sliding door cracked. I rained that night and the next day it wouldn't play, took 3 days in the back room to come back to normal.
Have you tried roasted maple on a guitar build before? It's been very stable for me and it gets quite humid here. My neck only has gunstock wax on it and I oil the ebony once a year with mineral oil. There was some fret sprout when I got it and I quickly removed it with a couple of credit card sized diamond files — haven't had an issue since.
10-04-2021, 01:26 PM
#1398
Do I need to detune the strings before making truss rod adjustments?
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10-04-2021, 01:34 PM
#1399
Originally Posted By rollerball⏩
Not necessary. Adjust it a 1/4 turn and check relief.
Do I need to detune the strings before making truss rod adjustments?
10-15-2021, 04:05 AM
#1400
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
If it needs more, make sure you stop turning if you feel serious resistance, you can strip these if you try.
Not necessary. Adjust it a 1/4 turn and check relief.
Don't forget to adjust bridge and possibly shim neck if necessary.
I have not tried roasted maple, I usually don't have problems, except this summer it was so humid that I couldn't get an ahs body to dry right. I stained it, let it hang in the garage, and thought it was dry. But after two coats of clear, it was sticky, for 2 months, so I've gone through 3 belts trying to sand it back down. Now I stain and let dry inside the house. I need to get 3 or 4 built before the end of the month, so I can sell at Christmas.
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10-16-2021, 06:26 PM
#1401
I don't answer questions
10-17-2021, 03:50 AM
#1402
Originally Posted By bignpisst⏩
Yep….great axe player and part of the Wrecking Crew.
Him and Roy Clarke are two of the very best players. (on spread)
Have a great day everyone…
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10-17-2021, 04:28 PM
#1403
Originally Posted By bignpisst⏩
Fascinating, what is this like big band country shred from the 70s? Really digging the speedy flow of licks with that big band instrumentation in the background. I'm curious what year this takes place, his technical approach seems almost anachronistic in this setting. Also weird to see an ovation electric.
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10-17-2021, 04:35 PM
#1404
Here's my entry for guitar vid that revs my engine today.
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10-17-2021, 08:39 PM
#1405
Originally Posted By rollerball⏩
Yeah, that's from the 70's and is called Western Swing - jazz played by shiitkickers.
Fascinating, what is this like big band country shred from the 70s? Really digging the speedy flow of licks with that big band instrumentation in the background. I'm curious what year this takes place, his technical approach seems almost anachronistic in this setting. Also weird to see an ovation electric.
Basically take a I-V |C|G| and turn it into a I-vi-ii-V |C Am|Dm G| and then secondary dominant out the minor chords to be I-VI7-II7-V7 |C A7|D7 G7| and now you have a lot more harmonic color due to the shifting dominant chords.
Deepfat: "I guarantee I beat you by at least 6 strokes. Afterwards, I'll slide my thick conservative cawk in your old lady just to finish the job."
z4: "So when are you available in September to play?"
Deep: "On second thought, I don't play golf with broads. You're such a scumbag that I'd be much more inclined to just slap the chit out of you."
z4: "MMA match works, too. So when are you available this month?
Deep: "I won't subject myself to being in the presence of a scumbag."
10-17-2021, 11:37 PM
#1406
Originally Posted By z4v4⏩
Reminds me of Jimmy Bryant with a a bit more gas in the tank so to speak.
Yeah, that's from the 70's and is called Western Swing - jazz played by shiitkickers.
Basically take a I-V |C|G| and turn it into a I-vi-ii-V |C Am|Dm G| and then secondary dominant out the minor chords to be I-VI7-II7-V7 |C A7|D7 G7| and now you have a lot more harmonic color due to the shifting dominant chords.
Basically take a I-V |C|G| and turn it into a I-vi-ii-V |C Am|Dm G| and then secondary dominant out the minor chords to be I-VI7-II7-V7 |C A7|D7 G7| and now you have a lot more harmonic color due to the shifting dominant chords.
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10-19-2021, 09:25 PM
#1407
Hmm I think now with the new Axe FX III Turbo coming out I might have to think about selling the II and upgrading. Or maybe instead of the III Turbo I'll get the FM9.
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10-20-2021, 06:46 AM
#1408
Originally Posted By rollerball⏩
Yep….that's some damned energetic picking on that tele.
Reminds me of Jimmy Bryant with a a bit more gas in the tank so to speak.
Definitely some 'gas in the tank' on that cut.
It certainly appears at 00:50 that he's playing through a Randall Commander II solid state amp.
That's the same one I have….purchased new back in '79.
Have a good day everyone….
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10-21-2021, 06:29 PM
#1409
Originally Posted By rollerball⏩
Yeah that dude makes it look easy
Here's my entry for guitar vid that revs my engine today.
Good post
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10-22-2021, 11:31 AM
#1410
Originally Posted By rollerball⏩
Incredible technology but probably overkill for most guitarists. How many sounds will you ever use? I reckon an amp with a reactive load into impulse responses then into the Fractal for effects and through monitors so you can play at low volume will sound and feel better every day of the week.
Hmm I think now with the new Axe FX III Turbo coming out I might have to think about selling the II and upgrading. Or maybe instead of the III Turbo I'll get the FM9.
A friend of mine is using Amplitube 5 and wanted my thoughts. Maybe it could use further tweaking but it felt like it had 2% of the touch sensitivity of my own rig. On mine I play soft and it's clean with every nuance of the pick touching the strings. Dig in and I get more drive until it's singing when I solo and that's all without touching the volume control. I'm not really hearing that in modeler demos. They sound amazing with high gain but who wants to play with that all the time?
FM9: "One big difference (vs. FM3) is the FM9 can run two amp blocks and two cab blocks in any preset." Been doing this for over 2 years. Glad it's catching on. Sounds great.
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