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» Official Misc Photography Crew, Part V "Do you even shoot?"
10-05-2016, 03:39 PM
#1471
Originally Posted By Tabris⏩
Often it is less than people think but varies by genre (eg. focus stacking macro shots or stitching multi-row panorama landscapes) and typically it is to work around the shortcomings of the medium unless they are some HDR loving retard. What people grossly underestimate is the time spend in pre-production, that is usually where are the hard work is done - actually taking the picture is often just the result of all of that up-front work.
That's one thing I've noticed a lot more since I've started messing around with DSLRs a bit more in the last year, how much goes into post-processing.
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10-05-2016, 03:59 PM
#1472
Originally Posted By zknarc⏩
Oh yeah, I get there are varying degrees depending on the type of photo taken and such. I shouldn't have simplified it so much.
Often it is less than people think but varies by genre (eg. focus stacking macro shots or stitching multi-row panorama landscapes) and typically it is to work around the shortcomings of the medium unless you are some HDR loving retard. What people grossly underestimate is the time spend in pre-production, that is usually where are the hard work is done - actually taking the picture is often just the result of all of that up-front work.
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10-05-2016, 04:28 PM
#1473
Originally Posted By unc91⏩
Your shooting position is what changes the perspective. Focal length only changes the magnification. In other words you could take the same shot with a wide lens if you don't mind cropping and throwing away pixels. What is creating that ugly distortion is being too close to the subject. Unlike a wide lens a telephoto lens automatically forces you to stand further back to frame your subject and for portraits that's generally going to be more flattering to the subject.
hey boys. After seeing this picture for the 100th time i realized i might want to get an
actual
camera instead of using my iphone.
">
what would be a good camera to get that has a 70-100mm lens? just mainly wanting to take pictures of myself and friends/family. I could spend probably 300-400 dollars on something for now. will rep if you care about that kind of thing
">
what would be a good camera to get that has a 70-100mm lens? just mainly wanting to take pictures of myself and friends/family. I could spend probably 300-400 dollars on something for now. will rep if you care about that kind of thing
The most affordable portrait lens on a crop sensor DSLR is a 50mm 1.8 which will give you the field of view of a 75-80mm lens on full frame depending on the crop factor (e.g. 1.5-1.6x). The problem you're going to encounter with longer zoom lenses for portraits is you'll often want to isolate your subject from a distracting background and the aperture will be too small to do that unless you drop big bucks on something like a 70-200 2.8. That's why I'd suggest a fast prime like the 50 1.8 and eventually the 85 1.8 when budget permits. They're a lot lighter and more discreet too.
Originally Posted By Tabris⏩
That's one of the things that is great about photography. No matter how accomplished or comfortable you are at one photography genre there are many others to challenge you. You could be great at portraits but have no idea with landscapes, or sport, or astrophotography, or street photography, product photography… the list goes on.
Yeah, reminds me of a guy I know that specialises in property photography. He makes pretty decent money out of that.
He does branch out elsewhere and he's still pretty good with a camera, but some of his other shots, like those of land/cuityscapes are way too over-processed with saturation and sharpness that some of his photos look more like architect concepts where everything is CGI, the sky is super blue, grass is luminous green and super colourful, etc. Also adding obviously shopped lens flares. Or in his street photography people start having a light halo because of the amount of contast and sharpening applied.
He does branch out elsewhere and he's still pretty good with a camera, but some of his other shots, like those of land/cuityscapes are way too over-processed with saturation and sharpness that some of his photos look more like architect concepts where everything is CGI, the sky is super blue, grass is luminous green and super colourful, etc. Also adding obviously shopped lens flares. Or in his street photography people start having a light halo because of the amount of contast and sharpening applied.
10-05-2016, 11:09 PM
#1474
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
If you're doing strictly portraits, 85mm f/1.8 is a beautiful lens. Though, for a "hey lets see what happens" lens on a crop sensor maybe something like the "AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G ED VR" on a D3200 might suit you and be close to in your budget. This would be an effective 36-127mm with vibration control. A decent all around lens.
Your shooting position is what changes the perspective. Focal length only changes the magnification. In other words you could take the same shot with a wide lens if you don't mind cropping and throwing away pixels. What is creating that ugly distortion is being too close to the subject. Unlike a wide lens a telephoto lens automatically forces you to stand further back to frame your subject and for portraits that's generally going to be more flattering to the subject.
The most affordable portrait lens on a crop sensor DSLR is a 50mm 1.8 which will give you the field of view of a 75-80mm lens on full frame depending on the crop factor (e.g. 1.5-1.6x). The problem you're going to encounter with longer zoom lenses for portraits is you'll often want to isolate your subject from a distracting background and the aperture will be too small to do that unless you drop big bucks on something like a 70-200 2.8. That's why I'd suggest a fast prime like the 50 1.8 and eventually the 85 1.8 when budget permits. They're a lot lighter and more discreet too.
The most affordable portrait lens on a crop sensor DSLR is a 50mm 1.8 which will give you the field of view of a 75-80mm lens on full frame depending on the crop factor (e.g. 1.5-1.6x). The problem you're going to encounter with longer zoom lenses for portraits is you'll often want to isolate your subject from a distracting background and the aperture will be too small to do that unless you drop big bucks on something like a 70-200 2.8. That's why I'd suggest a fast prime like the 50 1.8 and eventually the 85 1.8 when budget permits. They're a lot lighter and more discreet too.
That's one of the things that is great about photography. No matter how accomplished or comfortable you are at one photography genre there are many others to challenge you. You could be great at portraits but have no idea with landscapes, or sport, or astrophotography, or street photography, product photography… the list goes on.
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10-06-2016, 05:55 AM
#1475
I appreciate the help, some actual useful information
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10-06-2016, 09:04 PM
#1476
It would be cool if I had somewhere dark to shoot astro stuff. I'm super new to stuff and survive off tutorials lol.
My first try at astrophotography a couple months ago.
My second try last week
My first try at astrophotography a couple months ago.
My second try last week
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10-06-2016, 11:32 PM
#1477
Thinking of picking up this lens:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HAF120K
For my Panasonic GX8.
Thoughts? I know it's manual focus but seems like amazing value. Thanks.
For my Panasonic GX8.
Thoughts? I know it's manual focus but seems like amazing value. Thanks.
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10-07-2016, 06:07 AM
#1478
Made it on BMW's instagram today we outcheaaaaaa misc
Also I did a shoot with a model the other night switching between my 24-70 f/2.8L II and 85 f/1.8, and looking at pics in LR I'm realizing how poverty the non-L 85 is now when it comes to contrast and IQ. I guess I'm spoiled by being able to shoot wide open with zero loss in sharpness and zero chromatic aberration on the 24-70.
soo anyone want to buy an 85mm f/1.8?
Also I did a shoot with a model the other night switching between my 24-70 f/2.8L II and 85 f/1.8, and looking at pics in LR I'm realizing how poverty the non-L 85 is now when it comes to contrast and IQ. I guess I'm spoiled by being able to shoot wide open with zero loss in sharpness and zero chromatic aberration on the 24-70.
soo anyone want to buy an 85mm f/1.8?
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10-07-2016, 11:09 AM
#1479
Originally Posted By LieutenantGains⏩
Dats it mayne. It's been a good month for you! CPS last week, too, right?
Made it on BMW's instagram today we outcheaaaaaa misc
![]()
Also I did a shoot with a model the other night switching between my 24-70 f/2.8L II and 85 f/1.8, and looking at pics in LR I'm realizing how poverty the non-L 85 is now when it comes to contrast and IQ. I guess I'm spoiled by being able to shoot wide open with zero loss in sharpness and zero chromatic aberration on the 24-70.
soo anyone want to buy an 85mm f/1.8?
Also I did a shoot with a model the other night switching between my 24-70 f/2.8L II and 85 f/1.8, and looking at pics in LR I'm realizing how poverty the non-L 85 is now when it comes to contrast and IQ. I guess I'm spoiled by being able to shoot wide open with zero loss in sharpness and zero chromatic aberration on the 24-70.
soo anyone want to buy an 85mm f/1.8?
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10-07-2016, 12:26 PM
#1480
Two more shots from NYC
I enjoy wildlife, nature and landscape photography but architecture has an appeal to it, need to study it some more prior to the next major city visit.
Really need to start developing better product-shoots, I have an online store where I refurbish and sell axes, I just use my phone currently, which works fine, but I think the better the photograph the more the viewer can appreciate the details, and the more the item feels real to them. Had a few set-ups in the past, where I would lay the axe on a bed of wood-chips/shavings, something neutral in a sense, to bring focus on the item, a white shadow box type set-up just seemed to big for axes. My current method is an all-brick background, need to source some land out in the woods for a in-action in-nature type of product shoot.
Would greatly appreciate any ideas. www.etsy.com/shop/berensaxehouse
Here is an example of what I currently do.
I enjoy wildlife, nature and landscape photography but architecture has an appeal to it, need to study it some more prior to the next major city visit.
Really need to start developing better product-shoots, I have an online store where I refurbish and sell axes, I just use my phone currently, which works fine, but I think the better the photograph the more the viewer can appreciate the details, and the more the item feels real to them. Had a few set-ups in the past, where I would lay the axe on a bed of wood-chips/shavings, something neutral in a sense, to bring focus on the item, a white shadow box type set-up just seemed to big for axes. My current method is an all-brick background, need to source some land out in the woods for a in-action in-nature type of product shoot.
Would greatly appreciate any ideas. www.etsy.com/shop/berensaxehouse
Here is an example of what I currently do.
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10-09-2016, 07:45 AM
#1481
This is a reply to cinderblocks post because I do not have the post count to post photos…
I would try to bring the highlights down a bit to make the building not so bright. To me it takes away from the actual image itself (the stars). Now you may or may not be able to do that effectively to get the building not so bright but I would try that.
Good picture by the way
I would try to bring the highlights down a bit to make the building not so bright. To me it takes away from the actual image itself (the stars). Now you may or may not be able to do that effectively to get the building not so bright but I would try that.
Good picture by the way
10-09-2016, 01:07 PM
#1482
So I ended up picking up a Sony a7ii last week. Been messing around a bit with it.
10-09-2016, 01:08 PM
#1483
10-09-2016, 04:20 PM
#1484
Mentioned a few weeks ago I was looking for a strap that I could quickly disconnect and have nothing attached when I mount it to the tripod. I have an L-bracket on 24/7.
BlackRapid with an Arca clamp attached would also be a good choice but to be honest when I shoot I like to have no strap at all. Often when shooting an event I'll take wide overhead shots with the camera held as high as possible. And as soon as I move to a tripod I want nothing hanging off it.
Decided to keep it simple and go with a Kirk Security Strap which has been around for a long time. I've used Kirk clamps on tripod heads before and they're rock solid. I clamp the left side of the bracket so I can grab the camera in either landscape or portrait orientation and have nothing in the way when quickly taking a shot without disconnecting first. Camera and lens are angled back behind my right hip.
If you shoot a lot from tripod and you're not using an L-bracket, you should be . No need to flop the tripod head and you can shoot panos properly in vertical.
BlackRapid with an Arca clamp attached would also be a good choice but to be honest when I shoot I like to have no strap at all. Often when shooting an event I'll take wide overhead shots with the camera held as high as possible. And as soon as I move to a tripod I want nothing hanging off it.
Decided to keep it simple and go with a Kirk Security Strap which has been around for a long time. I've used Kirk clamps on tripod heads before and they're rock solid. I clamp the left side of the bracket so I can grab the camera in either landscape or portrait orientation and have nothing in the way when quickly taking a shot without disconnecting first. Camera and lens are angled back behind my right hip.
If you shoot a lot from tripod and you're not using an L-bracket, you should be . No need to flop the tripod head and you can shoot panos properly in vertical.
10-09-2016, 07:26 PM
#1485
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10-09-2016, 07:58 PM
#1486
Originally Posted By unc91⏩
hey boys. After seeing this picture for the 100th time i realized i might want to get an
actual
camera instead of using my iphone.
what would be a good camera to get that has a 70-100mm lens? just mainly wanting to take pictures of myself and friends/family. I could spend probably 300-400 dollars on something for now. will rep if you care about that kind of thing
what would be a good camera to get that has a 70-100mm lens? just mainly wanting to take pictures of myself and friends/family. I could spend probably 300-400 dollars on something for now. will rep if you care about that kind of thing
If you plan on getting semi- serious best option at that low of a price point is the original Canon 5D used (cheapest one $350 @ BH)
and in terms of lens options either
50 1.8STM (Cheapest @ $125 New)
50 1.4 (New 350 / New 270)
85 1.8 (New 370 / Used 280)
100mm 2.0 (New 500 / Used 350-400 + coupons off)
I cant share links but look at BHPhoto or KEH for NEw and Used
You should be aware 70-100 is pretty zoomed in and holding the camera out arms full extended will just fit your full face at 50mm, getting group photos indoors with these are not always possible.
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10-09-2016, 10:02 PM
#1487
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
Focal length also changes the lens compression. A longer focal length will make objects in the background appear closer than a shorter focal length.
Your shooting position is what changes the perspective. Focal length only changes the magnification.
10-09-2016, 10:09 PM
#1488
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
Looks beautiful. Entirely up to you but with architectural shots I would go a step further and correct for barrel and perspective distortion.
Originally Posted By M0tibation⏩
As an architectural photographer, I will agree with this. Distortion and converging lines makes me cringe!
You guys need to help me out, because I don't see the barrel distortion. Mind taking it to paint to highlight what I'm not seeing?
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10-09-2016, 11:39 PM
#1489
Originally Posted By whitepaper⏩
I'll have to make a gif so you can see the before and after.
You guys need to help me out, because I don't see the barrel distortion. Mind taking it to paint to highlight what I'm not seeing?
Originally Posted By Inavan⏩
This is a myth.
Focal length also changes the
lens compression
. A longer focal length will make objects in the background appear closer than a shorter focal length.
">
">
Nothing is being compressed. What is changing with the longer focal length is the apparent size of the objects in the frame due to the smaller field of view and magnification of the subject. The background appears larger in relation to the foreground. Call it "compression" if it helps you visualize it but it won't make it right.
10-10-2016, 04:19 AM
#1490
Originally Posted By Inavan⏩
No, it doesn't. The different focal length just means you need to be at a different distance to the subject for the same framing. The distance is what is doing the compression.
Focal length also changes the lens compression. A longer focal length will make objects in the background appear closer than a shorter focal length.
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10-10-2016, 05:58 AM
#1491
Lightroom does a pretty decent job of fixing the distortion. If you shoot with a wide angle lens you will notice when you open the pic up it will sometimes look a little weird at first but after a second or two it looks normal.
10-10-2016, 11:02 AM
#1492
Guys.. especially Dom. I need help.
Contemplating picking up a 200 f/2..
Need reasons to NOT get it…
I love the bokeh, and I normally shoot portraits wide open.. halp..
Contemplating picking up a 200 f/2..
Need reasons to NOT get it…
I love the bokeh, and I normally shoot portraits wide open.. halp..
10-10-2016, 12:05 PM
#1493
I've been playing more with my fuji jpegs and I've discovered (or confirmed 2 things):
1) LR doesn't play nice with Fuji RAW files (yes, not even now, not even with the latest updates)
2) Fuji jpegs are pretty effing nice and they can be pushed/pulled a bit more than expected.
I'll now shoot RAW+F but I'll mostly edit the jpegs. Raw files will be there for when I want B&W/Color
SOOC photo of some hanging lights
Give Me Bokeh Or Give Me Death
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tete_rs
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1) LR doesn't play nice with Fuji RAW files (yes, not even now, not even with the latest updates)
2) Fuji jpegs are pretty effing nice and they can be pushed/pulled a bit more than expected.
I'll now shoot RAW+F but I'll mostly edit the jpegs. Raw files will be there for when I want B&W/Color
SOOC photo of some hanging lights
Give Me Bokeh Or Give Me Death
by
tete_rs
, en Flickr
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10-10-2016, 04:42 PM
#1494
Originally Posted By Foques⏩
Only two reasons Foques.
Guys.. especially Dom. I need help.
Contemplating picking up a 200 f/2..
Need reasons to NOT get it…
I love the bokeh, and I normally shoot portraits wide open.. halp..
Contemplating picking up a 200 f/2..
Need reasons to NOT get it…
I love the bokeh, and I normally shoot portraits wide open.. halp..
It's expensive but then practically everything nice is. It's heavy. Over 6lbs but on a long shoot you could always use a monopod. Gitzo make an excellent monopod your height for $300 .
Bokeh. Best I've seen. Sharpness. Obviously superior to the 70-200 2.8 @ 200. Just an incredible piece of glass that photographers will be fapping over and it will get a lot of attention from passersby. Could also help separate you from some of the competition in the area.
You could rent one to convince yourself but the big stores are good on returns for 30 days so there's really no point. You already know what you're buying — one of Nikon's best lenses.
Have you considered the new 105 f/1.4? Not in the same league optically, no VR, made in China with a plastic barrel and filter threads, and out of focus lights towards the edges of the frame will look more like footballs than circles, but at this stage it's a unique lens.
10-10-2016, 05:22 PM
#1495
Originally Posted By Foques⏩
Everything Dom said, and it focuses fast. Really, really fast. And you probably won't use it as much as you'd think, I don't, but I'd never sell it either.
Guys.. especially Dom. I need help.
Contemplating picking up a 200 f/2..
Need reasons to NOT get it…
I love the bokeh, and I normally shoot portraits wide open.. halp..
Contemplating picking up a 200 f/2..
Need reasons to NOT get it…
I love the bokeh, and I normally shoot portraits wide open.. halp..
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10-10-2016, 05:53 PM
#1496
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
Only two reasons Foques.
It's expensive but then practically everything nice is. It's heavy. Over 6lbs but on a long shoot you could always use a monopod. Gitzo make an excellent monopod your height for $300 .
Bokeh. Best I've seen. Sharpness. Obviously superior to the 70-200 2.8 @ 200. Just an incredible piece of glass that photographers will be fapping over and it will get a lot of attention from passersby. Could also help separate you from some of the competition in the area.
You could rent one to convince yourself but the big stores are good on returns for 30 days so there's really no point. You already know what you're buying — one of Nikon's best lenses.
Have you considered the new 105 f/1.4? Not in the same league optically, no VR, made in China with a plastic barrel and filter threads, and out of focus lights towards the edges of the frame will look more like footballs than circles, but at this stage it's a unique lens.
It's expensive but then practically everything nice is. It's heavy. Over 6lbs but on a long shoot you could always use a monopod. Gitzo make an excellent monopod your height for $300 .
Bokeh. Best I've seen. Sharpness. Obviously superior to the 70-200 2.8 @ 200. Just an incredible piece of glass that photographers will be fapping over and it will get a lot of attention from passersby. Could also help separate you from some of the competition in the area.
You could rent one to convince yourself but the big stores are good on returns for 30 days so there's really no point. You already know what you're buying — one of Nikon's best lenses.
Have you considered the new 105 f/1.4? Not in the same league optically, no VR, made in China with a plastic barrel and filter threads, and out of focus lights towards the edges of the frame will look more like footballs than circles, but at this stage it's a unique lens.
Originally Posted By pieceofdebri79⏩
weight, i'm actually looking forward to. I love using my 70-200.
Everything Dom said, and it focuses fast. Really, really fast. And you probably won't use it as much as you'd think, I don't, but I'd never sell it either.
I do own a 105 macro; have a hard time going for a lens with the same focal length, but a different aperture.
There is a 200mm one on ebay at 3500 atm that i'm eyeing.
so, basically, you just sold me on it. :| My wife will not thank you, that's for sure
thank you so much for the info. I feel better about it now.
10-11-2016, 11:16 AM
#1497
Originally Posted By Foques⏩
You could go for the 200mm f/1.8 which is not as sharp + lacking IS but a bit faster its on at KEH for $3392+ free shipping and there is always a 10-25 percent coupon going around TRYKEH is a 10 I know of right now bringing it to 3052
weight, i'm actually looking forward to. I love using my 70-200.
I do own a 105 macro; have a hard time going for a lens with the same focal length, but a different aperture.
There is a 200mm one on ebay at 3500 atm that i'm eyeing.
so, basically, you just sold me on it. :| My wife will not thank you, that's for sure
thank you so much for the info. I feel better about it now.
I do own a 105 macro; have a hard time going for a lens with the same focal length, but a different aperture.
There is a 200mm one on ebay at 3500 atm that i'm eyeing.
so, basically, you just sold me on it. :| My wife will not thank you, that's for sure
thank you so much for the info. I feel better about it now.
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10-12-2016, 06:05 AM
#1498
Originally Posted By NickThe13th⏩
I got an email off KEH today actually, 10% off digital 15% off film gear with SURPRISESALE, ending 13/10 at 11:59pm EST.
You could go for the 200mm f/1.8 which is not as sharp + lacking IS but a bit faster its on at KEH for $3392+ free shipping and there is always a 10-25 percent coupon going around TRYKEH is a 10 I know of right now bringing it to 3052
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10-13-2016, 12:57 PM
#1499
Originally Posted By Foques⏩
For a portrait lens try the 100 2.8L OR the 135 f2L. I have used the macro lens and its amazing!!!
Guys.. especially Dom. I need help.
Contemplating picking up a 200 f/2..
Need reasons to NOT get it…
I love the bokeh, and I normally shoot portraits wide open.. halp..
Contemplating picking up a 200 f/2..
Need reasons to NOT get it…
I love the bokeh, and I normally shoot portraits wide open.. halp..
As for the 135mm lens, I rented it so I will be able to post photos from this weekend once I get past this post count…
10-13-2016, 01:00 PM
#1500
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
I have been considering an L Bracket for some time. I think the local camera shop has some for sale.
Mentioned a few weeks ago I was looking for a strap that I could quickly disconnect and have nothing attached when I mount it to the tripod. I have an L-bracket on 24/7.
BlackRapid with an Arca clamp attached would also be a good choice but to be honest when I shoot I like to have no strap at all. Often when shooting an event I'll take wide overhead shots with the camera held as high as possible. And as soon as I move to a tripod I want nothing hanging off it.
Decided to keep it simple and go with a Kirk Security Strap which has been around for a long time. I've used Kirk clamps on tripod heads before and they're rock solid. I clamp the left side of the bracket so I can grab the camera in either landscape or portrait orientation and have nothing in the way when quickly taking a shot without disconnecting first. Camera and lens are angled back behind my right hip.
If you shoot a lot from tripod and you're not using an L-bracket, No need to flop the tripod head and you can shoot panos properly in vertical.
BlackRapid with an Arca clamp attached would also be a good choice but to be honest when I shoot I like to have no strap at all. Often when shooting an event I'll take wide overhead shots with the camera held as high as possible. And as soon as I move to a tripod I want nothing hanging off it.
Decided to keep it simple and go with a Kirk Security Strap which has been around for a long time. I've used Kirk clamps on tripod heads before and they're rock solid. I clamp the left side of the bracket so I can grab the camera in either landscape or portrait orientation and have nothing in the way when quickly taking a shot without disconnecting first. Camera and lens are angled back behind my right hip.
If you shoot a lot from tripod and you're not using an L-bracket, No need to flop the tripod head and you can shoot panos properly in vertical.
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