Forum
»
More General Categories
»
Misc.
» Official Misc Photography Crew, Part V "Do you even shoot?"
05-10-2018, 10:42 PM
#2431
Originally Posted By theACEofSPADES⏩
All that stuff is subjective. I don't do portraits you'd need a wider aperture for better subject isolation. 50mm 1.8/85mm 1.8 are common portrait lenses. The further the subject is seperated from the background, the more blur you'll get.
Can I get some pointers on taking portrait photos?
Specifically, a picture of someone from the chest up. The purpose is to show the person and not the environment. Kind of like those portraits of actors that casting directors would look at to see if they fit the required looks
I'm assuming I should use a normal wall as a background. But what else in terms of lighting, angles, camera settings, lens, etc?
Specifically, a picture of someone from the chest up. The purpose is to show the person and not the environment. Kind of like those portraits of actors that casting directors would look at to see if they fit the required looks
I'm assuming I should use a normal wall as a background. But what else in terms of lighting, angles, camera settings, lens, etc?
As for lighting/flashes/sync I have no freaking clue, ask the advanced guys here, and watch Tony Northrup, Manny Ortiz, Matt Granger etc.
- Cinderblock
- 🍆
- Join Date: Mar 2008
- Posts: 14,058
- Rep Power: 55,571
-
Quote
05-11-2018, 05:42 AM
#2432
Originally Posted By theACEofSPADES⏩
Go for natural light if you can.
Can I get some pointers on taking portrait photos?
Specifically, a picture of someone from the chest up. The purpose is to show the person and not the environment. Kind of like those portraits of actors that casting directors would look at to see if they fit the required looks
I'm assuming I should use a normal wall as a background. But what else in terms of lighting, angles, camera settings, lens, etc?
Specifically, a picture of someone from the chest up. The purpose is to show the person and not the environment. Kind of like those portraits of actors that casting directors would look at to see if they fit the required looks
I'm assuming I should use a normal wall as a background. But what else in terms of lighting, angles, camera settings, lens, etc?
Read this:
https://digital-photography-school.c...r-should-know/
i would take her temperature with my beef thermometer.
ya rly
BOZZED 5/12/11 - never forget
- dixie_normus
- Yes, it's that big
-
- dixie_normus
- Yes, it's that big
- Join Date: Apr 2009
- Posts: 5,680
- Rep Power: 16,441
-
05-11-2018, 06:58 AM
#2433
Originally Posted By theACEofSPADES⏩
You need to post examples for better help. This is awfully generalised and for every 'rule' there are a slew of successful pictures that break it.
Can I get some pointers on taking portrait photos?
Specifically, a picture of someone from the chest up. The purpose is to show the person and not the environment. Kind of like those portraits of actors that casting directors would look at to see if they fit the required looks
I'm assuming I should use a normal wall as a background. But what else in terms of lighting, angles, camera settings, lens, etc?
Specifically, a picture of someone from the chest up. The purpose is to show the person and not the environment. Kind of like those portraits of actors that casting directors would look at to see if they fit the required looks
I'm assuming I should use a normal wall as a background. But what else in terms of lighting, angles, camera settings, lens, etc?
85mm at last (or 35mm format exquiv)
Wide aperture so the background isn't too distracting
Softish BUT DIRECTIONAL light
Pose subject slightly side on
Flat backgrounds are boring, depth is better
Subject's face should be biggest, brightest thing in the frame
Look up short and broad lighting then find a window. Outside has too many variables for a n00b.
If you can't handle me when I'm incel, you don't deserve me when I'm chad
05-12-2018, 01:12 PM
#2435
Originally Posted By Cinderblock⏩
Ty!
All your car pics look like something out of Forza. So clean bruh.
A couple more recents
Lamborghini Gallardo by Gary Hebding Jr. , on Flickr
Porsche 911 widebody by Gary Hebding Jr. , on Flickr
Misc photography crew
Chicago crew
Polski crew
Throw keys on bench to claim it crew
6'2" 193lbs crew
#MMGA
- LieutenantGains
- Registered User
-
- LieutenantGains
- Registered User
- Join Date: Aug 2013
- Posts: 6,303
- Rep Power: 84,603
-
05-12-2018, 01:24 PM
#2436
Originally Posted By LieutenantGains⏩
I like this one. Makes the car look almost like a fish.
If you can't handle me when I'm incel, you don't deserve me when I'm chad
05-14-2018, 09:09 AM
#2437
"THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR PERSISTENCE!"
"Every time something get a little hard, you quit, you call momma. I dare you to take a little pain. I dare you!"
*Misc Photography Crew*
http://bodyspace.bodybuilding.com/IgboMeso/
05-14-2018, 12:02 PM
#2438
Originally Posted By LieutenantGains⏩
this!
Get the book Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson, real solid and effective overview of the fundamentals of photography.
Hell, if you want to pay shipping, you can have the copies I have on hand
Originally Posted By dixie_normus⏩
This is a solid advice for extreme beginners only, imho.
Go for natural light if you can.
OCF is essential for decent portraits. While natural light can be great, understanding of the OCF and light management is essential.
05-14-2018, 12:15 PM
#2439
Originally Posted By Foques⏩
I wouldn't say was essential but opens up options. Typically beginners go through a strobist phase where they produce awful green-screened looking overly lit pictures and get obsessed with gear/modifiers, like when you have a hammer everything looks like a nail.
OCF is essential for decent portraits. While natural light can be great, understanding of the OCF and light management is essential.
Using flash in a studio makes you learn lighting in a controlled way and you can then use these lighting patterns in situations you see with natural light. Often over time portrait/wedding photogs end up using less flash.
If you can't handle me when I'm incel, you don't deserve me when I'm chad
05-14-2018, 12:50 PM
#2440
Originally Posted By zknarc⏩
Yeah, balance for the ******t is a pain in the rear, and does require patience and experience.
I wouldn't say was essential but opens up options. Typically beginners go through a strobist phase where they produce awful green-screened looking overly lit pictures and get obsessed with gear/modifiers, like when you have a hammer everything looks like a nail.
Using flash in a studio makes you learn lighting in a controlled way and you can then use these lighting patterns in situations you see with natural light. Often over time portrait/wedding photogs end up using less flash.
Using flash in a studio makes you learn lighting in a controlled way and you can then use these lighting patterns in situations you see with natural light. Often over time portrait/wedding photogs end up using less flash.
It is essential if you want to be able to shoot regardless of the time of the day. I mean, good luck shooting in a 2pm bright sunlight, if client (or just a general desire) requests exactly that.
05-15-2018, 02:52 PM
#2441
Originally Posted By Foques⏩
I know this feel. This with no dark background anywhere to backlight and shoot onto is cruel torture
I mean, good luck shooting in a 2pm bright sunlight, if client (or just a general desire) requests exactly that.
Makes me wish I could have someone holding one of these all day
I actually use flash a lot on overcast days, 20-30% flash looks pretty natural and makes a huge difference in making the subject have some directional light on them and light in the eyes.
If you can't handle me when I'm incel, you don't deserve me when I'm chad
05-16-2018, 07:14 AM
#2442
right? Lately, I started employing the wife for the assistant purposes. Great workout for her, and a lot of help for me
I see BB still doesn't know how to fix the code, so I can't link from my site.
from the weekend.
mother nature trolled me; we were promised overcast sky, but got nothing but sunlight. :| shot at 1-2pm.
I see BB still doesn't know how to fix the code, so I can't link from my site.
from the weekend.
mother nature trolled me; we were promised overcast sky, but got nothing but sunlight. :| shot at 1-2pm.
05-16-2018, 08:41 AM
#2443
Originally Posted By zknarc⏩
This option is fine when you have control of your backgrounds and obviously an assistant to position those diffusion panels but it can't do anything about highlights burning into areas of the background where the difference is several stops. If you expose for those backgrounds your diffused or shaded subject will be underexposed.
I know this feel. This with no dark background anywhere to backlight and shoot onto is cruel torture
Makes me wish I could have someone holding one of these all day
Makes me wish I could have someone holding one of these all day
Portable light is the only practical solution and unlike years ago where you were limited by low flash sync speeds with manual flash (unless you had those fancy leaf shutter lenses on medium format) and the PITA of walking back and forth between lights today there are many affordable off camera lighting systems with 600W+ that offer full TTL control. And again unlike the days of Profoto, Broncolor, etc. where you'd have to hire most of that gear or sell a kidney to get one decent light and some modifiers there's now a boatload of Chinese systems that are affordable and work extremely well.
05-16-2018, 08:47 AM
#2444
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
Yeah with one of those I'd want flash too. Diffusing doesn't change the light direction.
This option is fine when you have control of your backgrounds and obviously an assistant to position those diffusion panels but it can't do anything about highlights burning into areas of the background where the difference is several stops. If you expose for those backgrounds your diffused or shaded subject will be underexposed.
Portable light is the only practical solution and unlike years ago where you were limited by low flash sync speeds with manual flash (unless you had those fancy leaf shutter lenses on medium format) and the PITA of walking back and forth between lights today there are many affordable off camera lighting systems with 600W+ that offer full TTL control. And again unlike the days of Profoto, Broncolor, etc. where you'd have to hire most of that gear or sell a kidney to get one decent light and some modifiers there's now a boatload of Chinese systems that are affordable and work extremely well.
Portable light is the only practical solution and unlike years ago where you were limited by low flash sync speeds with manual flash (unless you had those fancy leaf shutter lenses on medium format) and the PITA of walking back and forth between lights today there are many affordable off camera lighting systems with 600W+ that offer full TTL control. And again unlike the days of Profoto, Broncolor, etc. where you'd have to hire most of that gear or sell a kidney to get one decent light and some modifiers there's now a boatload of Chinese systems that are affordable and work extremely well.
All the godox type stuff is great for the price (love their lithium speedights) but you'd have to pry my actuteB2 600 from my cold dead hands with it's rock solid mount and pack/head. I never understood the fascination of TTL for strobes having my flash power varying everywhere when I change framing, fine for bounce flash with speedights. Profoto seem to have lost the plot recently with low powered battery flash systems with no bare bulb.
If you can't handle me when I'm incel, you don't deserve me when I'm chad
05-16-2018, 08:49 AM
#2445
Planned on purchasing a Canon 5d Mark IV. After seeing photos in here I'm contimplating the A7III.
Which one has the better high iso performance? I don't care about numbers. I only care about the output.
Shoot a lot of architecture and main complaint with current camera is noise in the dark areas. Especially in dark interiors.
Which one has the better high iso performance? I don't care about numbers. I only care about the output.
Shoot a lot of architecture and main complaint with current camera is noise in the dark areas. Especially in dark interiors.
- ChewYourFood
- ▪█───────█▪
-
- ChewYourFood
- ▪█───────█▪
- Join Date: Aug 2012
- Posts: 7,385
- Rep Power: 89,931
-
05-16-2018, 08:59 AM
#2446
Originally Posted By zknarc⏩
Good point. In addition to balancing the flash exposure with the ******t another skill is learning to use gels to correct the color temperature of flash so it blends with ******t light.
I wouldn't say was essential but opens up options. Typically beginners go through a strobist phase where they produce
awful green-screened looking overly lit pictures
and get obsessed with gear/modifiers, like when you have a hammer everything looks like a nail.
Nuking a subject with a cool flash when they're basking in warm afternoon light isn't a great look — ditto for warm lighting indoors. Sometimes all it takes is a 1/2 or 3/4 CTO or straw gel to make it all look natural. A creative trick is deliberately making light extra cool by dialing in a WB around 3000K/tungsten and warming the subject up with a gel. This also works well at night with street scenes, like this:
Credit: Joe McNally Credit: Joe McNally
05-16-2018, 09:06 AM
#2447
Originally Posted By ChewYourFood⏩
Surely for this you are on a tripod so not shooting at high iso? Clean shadows are not Canon's strong point so Sony (or Nikon) are your best options but keep in mind Canon easily has the best tilt/shift lenses.
Planned on purchasing a Canon 5d Mark IV. After seeing photos in here I'm contimplating the A7III.
Which one has the better high iso performance? I don't care about numbers. I only care about the output.
Shoot a lot of architecture and main complaint with current camera is noise in the dark areas. Especially in dark interiors.
Which one has the better high iso performance? I don't care about numbers. I only care about the output.
Shoot a lot of architecture and main complaint with current camera is noise in the dark areas. Especially in dark interiors.
For architecture I'd strongly look at a camera with pixel shift tech since nothing moves.
If you can't handle me when I'm incel, you don't deserve me when I'm chad
05-16-2018, 10:00 AM
#2448
I really feel that Joe's work is unoriginal. When he started, yes, what he shot was fantastic.. by those standards.
The other day, one of his SB-900 workshops came up, and his TTL use and results were quite underwhelming; I'd be unhappy with them if they were my own. :|
The sample shot above is also that. I really dislike the skin colour the dude has. :|
The other day, one of his SB-900 workshops came up, and his TTL use and results were quite underwhelming; I'd be unhappy with them if they were my own. :|
The sample shot above is also that. I really dislike the skin colour the dude has. :|
05-16-2018, 11:14 AM
#2449
Originally Posted By zknarc⏩
100% tripod.
Surely for this you are on a tripod so not shooting at high iso? Clean shadows are not Canon's strong point so Sony (or Nikon) are your best options but keep in mind Canon easily has the best tilt/shift lenses.
For architecture I'd strongly look at a camera with pixel shift tech since nothing moves.
For architecture I'd strongly look at a camera with pixel shift tech since nothing moves.
I was shooting an bracketed in an old dark theater and with low iso the exposures were minutes. As soon as I bumped the iso to get the exposure time reasonable I had all sorts of grain in the shadows. I have to constantly cap my iso. I'd like the flexibility to also use the camera to shoot my friends jujitsu but the lighting is usually horrible, and I can't capture a good shot without a chit ton of grain in the dark spots.
What would you recommend?
- ChewYourFood
- ▪█───────█▪
-
- ChewYourFood
- ▪█───────█▪
- Join Date: Aug 2012
- Posts: 7,385
- Rep Power: 89,931
-
05-16-2018, 11:26 AM
#2450
Been on misc for years, for some reason never realized a photography thread existed.
I still consider myself a noob. I shoot primarily motorsports and cars. This was my most favorite shot from a local drift event I frequent here in the Northeast. Shot with a Canon 6D Mark II and a Canon 70-200mm f/4.
Thoughts?
I still consider myself a noob. I shoot primarily motorsports and cars. This was my most favorite shot from a local drift event I frequent here in the Northeast. Shot with a Canon 6D Mark II and a Canon 70-200mm f/4.
Thoughts?
*BMW M3 Crew*
*Misc Car Crew*
*WrongFitmentCrew*
1k+ always
- yumirindoe
- CT Miscer
-
- yumirindoe
- CT Miscer
- Join Date: Feb 2012
- Location: Connecticut, United States
- Age: 32
- Posts: 1,200
- Rep Power: 2,028
-
05-16-2018, 11:51 AM
#2451
Originally Posted By ChewYourFood⏩
I still shoot a D800E and you can underexposure 5 stops, push it up in post and it looks almost indistinguishable from the higher iso correctly exposed version (a common test done online, have a google). Any Nikon camera D750 and up would do a great job at this and any higher end sony camera. DPreview does a cool comparison tool in their reviews where you can compare cameras in the same scene.
100% tripod.
I was shooting an bracketed in an old dark theater and with low iso the exposures were minutes. As soon as I bumped the iso to get the exposure time reasonable I had all sorts of grain in the shadows. I have to constantly cap my iso. I'd like the flexibility to also use the camera to shoot my friends jujitsu but the lighting is usually horrible, and I can't capture a good shot without a chit ton of grain in the dark spots.
What would you recommend?
I was shooting an bracketed in an old dark theater and with low iso the exposures were minutes. As soon as I bumped the iso to get the exposure time reasonable I had all sorts of grain in the shadows. I have to constantly cap my iso. I'd like the flexibility to also use the camera to shoot my friends jujitsu but the lighting is usually horrible, and I can't capture a good shot without a chit ton of grain in the dark spots.
What would you recommend?
If you can't handle me when I'm incel, you don't deserve me when I'm chad
05-16-2018, 06:51 PM
#2452
Originally Posted By Foques⏩
I wouldn't really judge the skin tones of his images until I saw them in print. With online images color can be all over the place especially if the profile is not embedded and even if it is some browsers will ignore it. Even with devices like phones certain colors will look more saturated than intended probably because a) color management is an afterthought and b) the average person taking happy snaps probably likes the way a flat digital image looks when all the colors are jacked up for them.
I really feel that Joe's work is unoriginal. When he started, yes, what he shot was fantastic.. by those standards.
The other day, one of his SB-900 workshops came up, and his TTL use and results were quite underwhelming; I'd be unhappy with them if they were my own. :|
The sample shot above is also that. I really dislike the skin colour the dude has. :|
The other day, one of his SB-900 workshops came up, and his TTL use and results were quite underwhelming; I'd be unhappy with them if they were my own. :|
The sample shot above is also that. I really dislike the skin colour the dude has. :|
Regarding that image it's a creative effect at night so getting the skin tones perfect is going to be hit and miss especially with other artificial light sources bleeding in. I like the juxtaposition of an overly cool background with a warm foreground. It makes it a little more interesting than a conventional street photography shot at night which are a dime a dozen.
Joe's earned his reputation. Today it's a lot easier to be a photographer than when he was coming up. If photography went back to film and light meters I'd say 98% of the digital crowd would probably pack it in and find another hobby.
05-17-2018, 07:15 AM
#2453
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
can't agree more with this
Joe's earned his reputation. Today it's a lot easier to be a photographer than when he was coming up. If photography went back to film and light meters I'd say 98% of the digital crowd would probably pack it in and find another hobby.
05-17-2018, 08:35 AM
#2454
Originally Posted By Foques⏩
Just noticed on that page with the image we discussed skin tones look okay before the shift to tungsten WB + CTO gel.
can't agree more with this
He might have used a full cut of CTO when 1/2 or 1/2+1/4 might have been enough and overcooked it with saturation or it needed further WB tweaking. Another possibility is CTS (straw) might have worked better than CTO in that instance. It can get tricky with other light sources bleeding in.
Anyway I think it's a great creative technique when done right but I'd agree with you based purely on a JPEG viewed on my display the skin tones are a little off.
05-23-2018, 03:26 PM
#2455
sup boyos. just pulled the trigger on my first camera, a canon 80D. any must know tips for a beginner? also what are the easiest ways to start making photography a second stream of income? (obviously i know it'll take a lot of practice first, but just curious). my mom got a t3i back when they were new, here's a couples pics i took messing around with it in the fall. First time touching a real camera and fell in love, hence why i just bought this one lol
bench - 320 x 1
squat - 360 x 1
05-24-2018, 07:50 AM
#2456
Planning a trip from the 2nd to 6th/7th of June
Sacramento - Yosemite
Yosemite up 395 past Reno, Scenic drive to Redding
Redwoods near Klamath, Avenue of Giants, King's Range
Highway 1 down the coast
Muir Woods/ Golden Gate Bridge
Back to Sacramento
Will be my first trip with a 35mm, had a 50mm and found it wasn't as wide as I would like. I have a 10-24mm but wanted a prime to force me to move around and get creative. Have a 70-300mm as well that I'm not crazy about, but works well enough, saving up for the 150-600mm some day.
Anyways trying to come up with some photography goals, wanting to improve, other than working on composition, I need to work on my landscape sharpness, seems they are always just a hair blurry when you look closely. I hand-shoot 99% of the time, so breaking out the tripod should help alot, but I find tripods can make it so all your shots are eye-level, rather than different angles. Also our first kid turns 1 next Monday, and started walking around alot, will be my first time with the camera while he is around, good time to work on some people shots, generally never shoot people.
Open for any suggestions on some photography goals for this trip, or anything specific to hit up in the Northern California area, will post trip photos after they are processed in probably a month.
Sacramento - Yosemite
Yosemite up 395 past Reno, Scenic drive to Redding
Redwoods near Klamath, Avenue of Giants, King's Range
Highway 1 down the coast
Muir Woods/ Golden Gate Bridge
Back to Sacramento
Will be my first trip with a 35mm, had a 50mm and found it wasn't as wide as I would like. I have a 10-24mm but wanted a prime to force me to move around and get creative. Have a 70-300mm as well that I'm not crazy about, but works well enough, saving up for the 150-600mm some day.
Anyways trying to come up with some photography goals, wanting to improve, other than working on composition, I need to work on my landscape sharpness, seems they are always just a hair blurry when you look closely. I hand-shoot 99% of the time, so breaking out the tripod should help alot, but I find tripods can make it so all your shots are eye-level, rather than different angles. Also our first kid turns 1 next Monday, and started walking around alot, will be my first time with the camera while he is around, good time to work on some people shots, generally never shoot people.
Open for any suggestions on some photography goals for this trip, or anything specific to hit up in the Northern California area, will post trip photos after they are processed in probably a month.
Rugby Crew
Misc Photography Crew
Best Gym Raw 585/405/640
- BlueSasquatch
- Axebrah
-
- BlueSasquatch
- Axebrah
- Join Date: Jul 2010
- Posts: 3,251
- Rep Power: 34,346
-
05-24-2018, 08:25 AM
#2457
Originally Posted By BlueSasquatch⏩
A lot of people use them that way but the correct approach is to eyeball a composition handheld and then bring the tripod up to that height.
I need to work on my landscape sharpness, seems they are always just a hair blurry when you look closely. I hand-shoot 99% of the time, so breaking out the tripod should help alot, but
I find tripods can make it so all your shots are eye-level, rather than different angles
.
Carbon fiber can make a big difference in terms of weight and the lighter it is the more likely you'll bring it with you on a hike. I like Gitzo but there are a bunch of Chinese clones these days that are obviously better value so you don't have to drop DSLR money on a set of CF legs. A decent ball head with an Arca style quick release makes life easier too. An L-bracket lives on my cameras full time so I can quickly switch between landscape and portrait without flopping the head.
I also ditched the crappy little strap connectors that always seem to rattle when I'm shooting video and have a strap with an Arca clamp that attaches to the L-bracket which I can quickly remove when I switch to the tripod so there's nothing hanging off it and I shoot without a remote most of the time and just use a delay on the shutter button. One less thing to get snagged on something or fall off somewhere.
Spoiler!
05-24-2018, 08:47 AM
#2458
Originally Posted By BlueSasquatch⏩
On high res cameras you need to be at least 1/2x the 1/shutter speed rule ie. for 50mm you want to be at least 1/100th. This is with being very careful. Personally I find even with wider lenses below 1/125 can be risky. With landscapes and dof requiring stopping down means you are on a tripod basically all the time. This helps with composition too because you can use live view.
I need to work on my landscape sharpness, seems they are always just a hair blurry when you look closely. I hand-shoot 99% of the time, so breaking out the tripod should help alot, but I find tripods can make it so all your shots are eye-level, rather than different angles.
The good ones have multi-point leg angles
Buy a good head with arca swiss an QR plate. L bracket for the camera makes things more solid and easier switching landscape to horizontal. Cheap and small tripods are a total waste of money, even my gitzo 1325 with acratech head isn't really enough to hold a 70-200mm for critical work.
Don't forget to use mirror lockup!
If you can't handle me when I'm incel, you don't deserve me when I'm chad
05-24-2018, 09:26 AM
#2459
Originally Posted By Dominik⏩
Slick set-up. The Tripod I have is a Manfrotto -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A lot of people use them that way but the correct approach is to eyeball a composition handheld and then bring the tripod up to that height.
Carbon fiber can make a big difference in terms of weight and the lighter it is the more likely you'll bring it with you on a hike. I like Gitzo but there are a bunch of Chinese clones these days that are obviously better value so you don't have to drop DSLR money on a set of CF legs. A decent ball head with an Arca style quick release makes life easier too. An L-bracket lives on my cameras full time so I can quickly switch between landscape and portrait without flopping the head.
I also ditched the crappy little strap connectors that always seem to rattle when I'm shooting video and have a strap with an Arca clamp that attaches to the L-bracket which I can quickly remove when I switch to the tripod so there's nothing hanging off it and I shoot without a remote most of the time and just use a delay on the shutter button. One less thing to get snagged on something or fall off somewhere.
Spoiler!
Little details that don't really change the quality of the image but overall make life easier out there.
Carbon fiber can make a big difference in terms of weight and the lighter it is the more likely you'll bring it with you on a hike. I like Gitzo but there are a bunch of Chinese clones these days that are obviously better value so you don't have to drop DSLR money on a set of CF legs. A decent ball head with an Arca style quick release makes life easier too. An L-bracket lives on my cameras full time so I can quickly switch between landscape and portrait without flopping the head.
I also ditched the crappy little strap connectors that always seem to rattle when I'm shooting video and have a strap with an Arca clamp that attaches to the L-bracket which I can quickly remove when I switch to the tripod so there's nothing hanging off it and I shoot without a remote most of the time and just use a delay on the shutter button. One less thing to get snagged on something or fall off somewhere.
Spoiler!
Its not great, but has worked fine enough when I've needed it, Also just keep the quick release mounted on the camera 24/7 Have thought about those hiking stick mounts, obviously not as stable but more useful while hiking perhaps.
Originally Posted By zknarc⏩
Good advice, need to pay more attention to settings, takes alot longer to set up the right shot than I spend on them, have a D7100 that I would like to set the 2 modes to a specific goal, I know it varies with each shot, but something that is better than Auto. Used Mirror lockup before on a couple starry night shots, but haven't gotten a remote shutter to work well yet, so I stray away from anything like that, with physically pushing the button causes it to move. I have a bluetooth or wifi attachment for the camera, but have never gotten it to work for **** with my phone, the app seems like ****, always going off and popping up, and seems to need a wifi signal to work, which doesn't exist when I'm out at a national park. Been disappointed with it so far, also eats the phone juice like crazy.
On high res cameras you need to be at least 1/2x the 1/shutter speed rule ie. for 50mm you want to be at least 1/100th. This is with being very careful. Personally I find even with wider lenses below 1/125 can be risky. With landscapes and dof requiring stopping down means you are on a tripod basically all the time. This helps with composition too because you can use live view.
The good ones have multi-point leg angles
Buy a good head with arca swiss an QR plate. L bracket for the camera makes things more solid and easier switching landscape to horizontal. Cheap and small tripods are a total waste of money, even my gitzo 1325 with acratech head isn't really enough to hold a 70-200mm for critical work.
Don't forget to use mirror lockup!
The good ones have multi-point leg angles
Buy a good head with arca swiss an QR plate. L bracket for the camera makes things more solid and easier switching landscape to horizontal. Cheap and small tripods are a total waste of money, even my gitzo 1325 with acratech head isn't really enough to hold a 70-200mm for critical work.
Don't forget to use mirror lockup!
**** that reminds me that I need to clean my sensor, last trip I had a dust spec in a handful of pictures, have the kit just haven't used it yet. Lens could probably use a quick clean too, before the trip.
Appreciate the advice!
Reading some blogs, I reckon my mid-range filters could be part of the issue too, will be removing them unless the conditions warrant one, see if that helps my case.
Anyone else use 500px for pictures? I just enjoy the layout for viewing, but if I browse to long it makes me feel crappy about my own shots.
www.500px.com/chadberens
Rugby Crew
Misc Photography Crew
Best Gym Raw 585/405/640
- BlueSasquatch
- Axebrah
-
- BlueSasquatch
- Axebrah
- Join Date: Jul 2010
- Posts: 3,251
- Rep Power: 34,346
-
05-24-2018, 10:04 AM
#2460
Originally Posted By BlueSasquatch⏩
Brah just spend the $25 on a cabled remote release. If that is too much use the self timer set to 2s or 5s.
Good advice, need to pay more attention to settings, takes alot longer to set up the right shot than I spend on them, have a D7100 that I would like to set the 2 modes to a specific goal, I know it varies with each shot, but something that is better than Auto. Used Mirror lockup before on a couple starry night shots, but haven't gotten a remote shutter to work well yet, so I stray away from anything like that, with physically pushing the button causes it to move. I have a bluetooth or wifi attachment for the camera, but have never gotten it to work for **** with my phone, the app seems like ****, always going off and popping up, and seems to need a wifi signal to work, which doesn't exist when I'm out at a national park. Been disappointed with it so far, also eats the phone juice like crazy.
If you can't handle me when I'm incel, you don't deserve me when I'm chad
Bookmarks
- Digg
- del.icio.us
- StumbleUpon
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts