So here’s the next attempt. No linear actuator this time as I removed the chimney and had access to the rear .





Testing fans . It’s pretty open on the front now so I didn’t bother with side fans , just have two fans on top . Although I’m debating to do a third and mount them in lexan





I thought I may as well put lexan and underneath and match the iPad stands base . I use my cabinet saw with a dado blade and cut a 10mm channel to fit the led strip . This is 12mm lexan so it only leaves you with 1mm top and bottom but does the trick and holds them well with a little help of hot glue



Installed the led strip





The rear . I do have a rear cover for the cabinet , it’s just not pictured. Without a rear cover you can see the straight threw to the laundry room




I thought about just putting a bezel around the perimeter of the receiver and made one with my router table . It didn’t cut it so I thought try the plexiglass idea instead





I thought there was too much room in the box and it would look weird being open but the end result worked imo
I think it looks pretty cool sitting on plexi .
I just have to put the wall board and trim on to complete

Nice work chief

Thx bruh


On to the iPad dilemma .
I put it in a cabinet beside the stereo on a fixed stand so I could play Amazon Music or music compilations off my network hard drive .





Then I thought wouldn’t be nice if the stand wasn’t fixed and I could slide it out for better access . I was trying to think of the best way to do it and my first thought was drawer slides .
Then I thought naw , you’ve never tried linear rails b4 so let’s try that . My idea was to use magnets to hold it onto place when you pull it out , but then I thought wouldn’t it be cooler with a linear actuator




Here’s the iPad on the fixed stand . I decided later that although unnecessary, wouldn’t it be even cooler if it tilted and extended out . So this was another abandoned idea



Building and testing






Installed


I used a magnetic usb-c cable in case the cable got snagged and tore the port apart . These actuators are rated for 350 lbs lol .
The iPad still is removable, as it’s just coupled to that magnetic plate that I commandeered off the stand . I just didn’t want the iPad laying on a bench where I might accidentally sit on it , so I made this cabinet to store it . I bring it out when I get rinsed , otherwise I just use it to get my music started during workouts

What are you putting on the face

I’m putting 1/2” mdf on the wall with trim between and around the cabinets

Gotdam..you are doin this shit up tight bro. Goobrah couldn't touch that quality of work.

Pre or post paint

Stain

The trim ,mdf is mdf

I’m going to leave the shelves there original colour . The wall was going to be white with grey trim , but after 24hourparking did an Ai rendering in black , I’ve decided to paint everything except the shelves with high end black acrylic latex paint . The same stuff I used on the trim of my tv lift


Obviously it will be much different than this but it gives you an idea . I think it’s going to look killer being black with stainless and the led edge lighting etc

Seal first or just right on the mdf ?

Didn't you do this b4 ?

Is this for new equipment??

I love black ,fav color

On the trim I’ll be fked , so ya I use spackle on the areas where it’s been cut or routed , then sand it , otherwise it will just soak up the paint forever and still look unfinished.
I’ve had great success sealing mdf in the past with spackle. Lots of super fine dust to deal with but I wear a mask plus have a shop vac running

Why i asked ,ya gota seal it first

Well ,you don't have to but ,it's recommended

B-i-n

For sure . Srs it won’t stop absorbing the paint otherwise, as Mdf is like a freaking sponge.

I learned a neat trick back in the mid 90’s when I was building subwoofer enclosures. I used to mix fibreglass resin and paint it on the inside of the cabinets joints . It made the joints virtually bullet proof , plus if you wanted you could seal all the outside edges so humidity would never be an issue

Zinnser bin sealer

Its expensive tho

Eh,spackle works ,but

Personal call

I’ll look into the that , thx. In this circumstance I do like the spackle though as it’s like drywall mud and you can fill and repair etc

Kilz works too ,its your thread I don't wana go off on a tangent ,keep updated

Well my parts arrived a few days ago , addressable led strip and a controller . It’s a little too cold to cut plexiglass atm but it’s warming up next week so I should have the edge lighting done on the leg press by next weekend .
At first it tested fine but as soon as I added 30 feet of 22 gauge wire it wouldn’t do chit . Luckily I remembered there’s very small switches under the processor that change the impedance of the data line , and luckily after that all was fine.




First attempt






Playing with different effects in the WLED App . Pretty cool tbh , and yes I’m easily amused . I’m wrong this effect is juggle .
I finally figured out how to make the controller boot up to what effect I want instead of a solid colour after it’s been powered down for a while

This is the storage area beside the gym . I’m moving my network rack and thought I’d include it in my thread because it’s the nerve centre for the gym .

I decided I didn’t like its location, as it was tucked into the left corner facing the wall on the right. I’ve always regretted having it there , and by freeing up that space it will give me room to add a second subwoofer for the gym if I ever wanted,
plus having the rack in the middle where it’s sitting now gives me better access to it , not to mention it looks cooler when you come downstairs and see all the pretty lights .

I have to take the harness of Cat6 apart regardless , so I thought this would be a good time to move the rack .
I’m adding a conduit from the gym to the attic which I’ll use to relocate the Cat6 in for the cameras . This way if I ever add a camera it will be a cakewalk getting network cable up into the attic .
Unfortunately I’ll have to replace the home theatre Cat6 upstairs as they’re going to be too short. But the outcome is going to be good .
While I’m at it I’m going to add a few more network cables to the gym as it seems like I’m always running short .
I do have an 8 port switch I could put in the gym but seeing as there’s a 24 port switch less than 40’ away , I may as well add more wires seeing as the harness is going to apart


New location