07-20-2020, 12:34 PM
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#1
- bsmit107
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- bsmit107
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Buy newer & mod less OR Buy older and mod more?
***Update as of 10.15.21...I sold the Subaru and bought a real project....found something for the 402 BB that I'm building.
*Update as of 5/17/21.
I bought something. See post 29........it's not what I was expecting, but I love it so far.
Looking for a weekend ripper......Occasional Autocross & Road Course duty, but mainly early weekend mornings ripping around unpopulated industrial areas. I really enjoy working on cars and now I have the space to do so, but I may not have the amount of time that I would ideally like to be able to do the work. This car will not serve dual purpose and (in my mind) will be as "racecar" as I can get it....gutted interior/suspension/rollcage/No AC/no cats/etc
The main question (mainly brought about by my recent sizable raise) is......
Do I drop $5500 on an (example) 2003 Mustang GT and spend another $8k in mods to get it where I want, taking weekends to do mods and really make it mine.... Having something pretty raw, that I don't feel bad about gutting and maybe wall-tapping in a year or so
or
Do I drop $13k on a (example) 2013 Mustang GT, $2500 on suspension/tires and maybe another $1500 on engine/exhaust mods, gut it, racing seat/harness and be good to go with mid 400's HP and no REAL work to be done and be ripping in a month?
I just don't know. Help me out bros.......
*Update as of 5/17/21.
I bought something. See post 29........it's not what I was expecting, but I love it so far.
Looking for a weekend ripper......Occasional Autocross & Road Course duty, but mainly early weekend mornings ripping around unpopulated industrial areas. I really enjoy working on cars and now I have the space to do so, but I may not have the amount of time that I would ideally like to be able to do the work. This car will not serve dual purpose and (in my mind) will be as "racecar" as I can get it....gutted interior/suspension/rollcage/No AC/no cats/etc
The main question (mainly brought about by my recent sizable raise) is......
Do I drop $5500 on an (example) 2003 Mustang GT and spend another $8k in mods to get it where I want, taking weekends to do mods and really make it mine.... Having something pretty raw, that I don't feel bad about gutting and maybe wall-tapping in a year or so
or
Do I drop $13k on a (example) 2013 Mustang GT, $2500 on suspension/tires and maybe another $1500 on engine/exhaust mods, gut it, racing seat/harness and be good to go with mid 400's HP and no REAL work to be done and be ripping in a month?
I just don't know. Help me out bros.......
07-20-2020, 12:48 PM
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#2
- Zackad
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- Zackad
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Ain't nobody who can answer that for yourself but I'd say it depends how patient you can be.
I personally would rather buy a cheaper one and mod it more extensively, rather than buy a newer one and do the basics. Chances are you would likely end up ripping out a lot of the stuff in the newer one anyway as a gutted racecar, so why pay more for a bunch of stuff you aren't even going to use?
I'd go with option 1 unless you just have to be track ready ASAP. I like seeing the journey of my cars modifications, so the more work to be done (within reason), the more i enjoy it.
I personally would rather buy a cheaper one and mod it more extensively, rather than buy a newer one and do the basics. Chances are you would likely end up ripping out a lot of the stuff in the newer one anyway as a gutted racecar, so why pay more for a bunch of stuff you aren't even going to use?
I'd go with option 1 unless you just have to be track ready ASAP. I like seeing the journey of my cars modifications, so the more work to be done (within reason), the more i enjoy it.
"So t
07-20-2020, 01:06 PM
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#3
At the end of the day it's how soon do you want to start thrashing it. Remember when you gut a car, things come out that you can sell and recoup some cash.
But the reality is your budget is blown no matter which you decide once you start playing. There's so much you'll want to do and you'll never quite get it where you really want it so you'll start trading up (at a loss usually) and then the expendables... you're discipline will be tested. You'll be surprised how fast you can destroy a set of tires. The economics of it has to be one of the most fun lessons to learn though.
But the reality is your budget is blown no matter which you decide once you start playing. There's so much you'll want to do and you'll never quite get it where you really want it so you'll start trading up (at a loss usually) and then the expendables... you're discipline will be tested. You'll be surprised how fast you can destroy a set of tires. The economics of it has to be one of the most fun lessons to learn though.
07-20-2020, 01:21 PM
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#4
07-20-2020, 02:17 PM
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#5
- bsmit107
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Yea, I guess you guys are just confirming what I was really thinking and kind of knew already.......go older and mod.
I know racing is expensive and addictive, in the long run I'd rather parts be cheaper and feel less badly about ripping on an older car that I know is build well and relatively cheap to fix than a newer one. YouTube's just got me all fukked up in the head, watching too many vids. lulz
Legit think I'm going to start with the New Edge Mustang GT as the platform though.....I hate how typical/common these cars are, but thats also what makes them cheap & parts plentiful. 2v 4.6 is tough too.
On Recharge fellas....blew my load earlier this morning on another thread I made.
I know racing is expensive and addictive, in the long run I'd rather parts be cheaper and feel less badly about ripping on an older car that I know is build well and relatively cheap to fix than a newer one. YouTube's just got me all fukked up in the head, watching too many vids. lulz
Legit think I'm going to start with the New Edge Mustang GT as the platform though.....I hate how typical/common these cars are, but thats also what makes them cheap & parts plentiful. 2v 4.6 is tough too.
On Recharge fellas....blew my load earlier this morning on another thread I made.
07-20-2020, 02:36 PM
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#6
- nosirrahx
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- nosirrahx
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Modifying the piss out of a car is so damn fun.
Eat in a deficit to lose weight.
Hit your protein and fat minimums to stay healthy and keep your gainz.
Lift heavy and do HIIT to look and feel awesome.
Use the internet to learn why you should do these things and how to do these things.
07-20-2020, 02:52 PM
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#7
- rectifryer
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fourth gen mustangs should not be considered for anything to do with curves save the cobra.
If you're just going to drag it then the 2013 is already a more robust and powerful platform.
This is an easy choice. The 03 will never be on the level of the 13. That was a pivotal time for domestic platforms as they transitioned from passively getting their chit pushed in by foreign markets to retaking the lead.
If you're just going to drag it then the 2013 is already a more robust and powerful platform.
This is an easy choice. The 03 will never be on the level of the 13. That was a pivotal time for domestic platforms as they transitioned from passively getting their chit pushed in by foreign markets to retaking the lead.
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07-20-2020, 03:37 PM
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#8
- SouthDakotaBrah
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C5 Z06 seems like it would fit nicely here
07-20-2020, 03:56 PM
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#9
Newer for sure.
Not only will the newer "x" model car will be fresher, but i assume it'll already have a power bump, more luxury features (like creature comforts etc).
After years and years of always owning older cars, modifying them, only for other wear and tear parts to break along with it, it made more financial sense, and less headaches, to go with as new as possible.
Not only will the newer "x" model car will be fresher, but i assume it'll already have a power bump, more luxury features (like creature comforts etc).
After years and years of always owning older cars, modifying them, only for other wear and tear parts to break along with it, it made more financial sense, and less headaches, to go with as new as possible.
07-20-2020, 06:51 PM
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#10
- akmerle
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Depends on how much you enjoy wrenching vs. driving.
If you already are saying how you don’t think you’ll have much time to wrench on your vehicle, that means you ABSOLUTELY won’t have enough time to modify and upgrade your vehicle. You’ll barely have enough them to replace the normal wear items.
Buy newer and spend the money on gas and tires.
If you already are saying how you don’t think you’ll have much time to wrench on your vehicle, that means you ABSOLUTELY won’t have enough time to modify and upgrade your vehicle. You’ll barely have enough them to replace the normal wear items.
Buy newer and spend the money on gas and tires.
07-21-2020, 06:55 AM
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#11
From those 2 options, I'd go with the 2013. Hell by the time you get all the stuff done on the 2003 you'll be up there in price. With 2013 you also get better engine and better safety.
Don't hit at all if it is honorably possible to avoid hitting; but never hit softly.
07-26-2020, 10:02 PM
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#12
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2003 is a turd of an engine. I’d be tempted to buy older and mod up if you find something in good shape, but would avoid those non terminator 4.6s.
Best bang for buck for performance is probably gonna be a vette or old fox body or something like that
Best bang for buck for performance is probably gonna be a vette or old fox body or something like that
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07-27-2020, 08:09 AM
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#13
- 1slo5oh
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Having owned a couple of New Edge Mustangs , one GT & a Terminator...
Save your money and pick up a used S197 2011+.. not only is it just a better built car but the aftermarket is better for it at this point.
Save your money and pick up a used S197 2011+.. not only is it just a better built car but the aftermarket is better for it at this point.
6'2" @ 247lbs
07-27-2020, 11:45 AM
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#14
- Beararms
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If you are going to get an older mustang just get one of the 4v 4.6 cobras. They are cheap as hell and you have a way better platform to mod. If not just get the newer one. 2v's sound good going slow.
07-27-2020, 11:46 AM
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#15
- Jms89
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5.0 coyote car, and it's not even close. I'll give you an example of a buddy of mine who bought a 94 302 car on the cheaps. After discovering lots of hidden gremlins both mechanically and cosmetically, he is into this car for well over 13k. He just had it dyno tuned the other day and it makes just shy of 300 hp. Unless you really LOVE the look of an 03, go for the newer car. I know he wishes he had gone that route.
This fool's running a Honda 2000
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07-28-2020, 09:24 AM
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#16
- bsmit107
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Originally Posted By rectifryer⏩
fourth gen mustangs should not be considered for anything to do with curves save the cobra.
If you're just going to drag it then the 2013 is already a more robust and powerful platform.
This is an easy choice. The 03 will never be on the level of the 13. That was a pivotal time for domestic platforms as they transitioned from passively getting their chit pushed in by foreign markets to retaking the lead.
If you're just going to drag it then the 2013 is already a more robust and powerful platform.
This is an easy choice. The 03 will never be on the level of the 13. That was a pivotal time for domestic platforms as they transitioned from passively getting their chit pushed in by foreign markets to retaking the lead.
Originally Posted By 1QWIK7⏩
Newer for sure.
Not only will the newer "x" model car will be fresher, but i assume it'll already have a power bump, more luxury features (like creature comforts etc).
After years and years of always owning older cars, modifying them, only for other wear and tear parts to break along with it, it made more financial sense, and less headaches, to go with as new as possible.
Not only will the newer "x" model car will be fresher, but i assume it'll already have a power bump, more luxury features (like creature comforts etc).
After years and years of always owning older cars, modifying them, only for other wear and tear parts to break along with it, it made more financial sense, and less headaches, to go with as new as possible.
Originally Posted By Jax05⏩
From those 2 options, I'd go with the 2013. Hell by the time you get all the stuff done on the 2003 you'll be up there in price. With 2013 you also get better engine and better safety.
Originally Posted By 1slo5oh⏩
Having owned a couple of New Edge Mustangs , one GT & a Terminator...
Save your money and pick up a used S197 2011+.. not only is it just a better built car but the aftermarket is better for it at this point.
Save your money and pick up a used S197 2011+.. not only is it just a better built car but the aftermarket is better for it at this point.
Originally Posted By Beararms⏩
If you are going to get an older mustang just get one of the 4v 4.6 cobras. They are cheap as hell and you have a way better platform to mod. If not just get the newer one. 2v's sound good going slow.
Originally Posted By Jms89⏩
The only issues I have with buying newer (I guess a 2011/12 is now almost 10 years old) is that I dont want to pay that much for something to literally rip out the interior. I guess I could try to recoup some money and sell it though. As it looks now I can get a 2011-12 GT 5.0 M6 in the 11-14k range and would basically be good to go with some coilovers/longtubes/xpipe/intake/tune/brake upgrade/tires/gut interior/rollcage/more weight loss.5.0 coyote car, and it's not even close. I'll give you an example of a buddy of mine who bought a 94 302 car on the cheaps. After discovering lots of hidden gremlins both mechanically and cosmetically, he is into this car for well over 13k. He just had it dyno tuned the other day and it makes just shy of 300 hp. Unless you really LOVE the look of an 03, go for the newer car. I know he wishes he had gone that route.
2010 Camaro SS's would fit this bill as well. Cam/headers/intake and tune are putting down some impressive numbers to the wheels.
I know the 4.6 2v's are turds (yes they sound great) and are a pain to get decent power out of unless dropping 2k+ on heads and even then it aint great and I dont really want to have to go forced induction to get 400+whp. I've thought about the 4v (non-supercharged) cobras/Mach 1's but those are close enough in price to a Coyote they dont make sense.
I've even though about getting crazy and picking up e36/e46 and doing an LS swap....but I feel like that would turn out to be waaay more of a project than Im looking for right now. Im not interested in F-Bodys, but I would entertain a C5 Corvette.
07-28-2020, 09:06 PM
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#17
- HotCheetos
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Originally Posted By bsmit107⏩
As long as you don’t mind driving a vette there really isn’t a question about what you should be buying. I wanted something a little more under the radar or I’d be in a vette no question. Easily the best performance car for the price.The only issues I have with buying newer (I guess a 2011/12 is now almost 10 years old) is that I dont want to pay that much for something to literally rip out the interior. I guess I could try to recoup some money and sell it though. As it looks now I can get a 2011-12 GT 5.0 M6 in the 11-14k range and would basically be good to go with some coilovers/longtubes/xpipe/intake/tune/brake upgrade/tires/gut interior/rollcage/more weight loss.
2010 Camaro SS's would fit this bill as well. Cam/headers/intake and tune are putting down some impressive numbers to the wheels.
I know the 4.6 2v's are turds (yes they sound great) and are a pain to get decent power out of unless dropping 2k+ on heads and even then it aint great and I dont really want to have to go forced induction to get 400+whp. I've thought about the 4v (non-supercharged) cobras/Mach 1's but those are close enough in price to a Coyote they dont make sense.
I've even though about getting crazy and picking up e36/e46 and doing an LS swap....but I feel like that would turn out to be waaay more of a project than Im looking for right now. Im not interested in F-Bodys, but I would entertain a C5 Corvette.
2010 Camaro SS's would fit this bill as well. Cam/headers/intake and tune are putting down some impressive numbers to the wheels.
I know the 4.6 2v's are turds (yes they sound great) and are a pain to get decent power out of unless dropping 2k+ on heads and even then it aint great and I dont really want to have to go forced induction to get 400+whp. I've thought about the 4v (non-supercharged) cobras/Mach 1's but those are close enough in price to a Coyote they dont make sense.
I've even though about getting crazy and picking up e36/e46 and doing an LS swap....but I feel like that would turn out to be waaay more of a project than Im looking for right now. Im not interested in F-Bodys, but I would entertain a C5 Corvette.
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07-28-2020, 09:12 PM
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#18
- tunafishha
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the newer the better. You won't have to worry about parts going bad.
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07-28-2020, 09:18 PM
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#19
I wouldn't rip the seats etc out unless you're looking for something to break 8 seconds.. id buy a stock 2015 with low miles and start there. You'll have a lot of potential and it'll have the creature comforts missing from the 17 year old model
07-28-2020, 09:40 PM
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#20
- waisoserious
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Buy Newer and Mod less.
The older car is likely already broken down already and any money you put into it in terms of repairs and mods will be more significant than if the car was newer. But you wont see any of that money come back to you when you decide to sell the car.
Get the newer car. Unless all the mods you are planning to do are really cheap.
The older car is likely already broken down already and any money you put into it in terms of repairs and mods will be more significant than if the car was newer. But you wont see any of that money come back to you when you decide to sell the car.
Get the newer car. Unless all the mods you are planning to do are really cheap.
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07-29-2020, 06:17 AM
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#21
- bsmit107
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Originally Posted By HotCheetos⏩
Yea that's just it...I kind of don't want a Corvette. lol, Id love an LS1 though.As long as you don’t mind driving a vette there really isn’t a question about what you should be buying. I wanted something a little more under the radar or I’d be in a vette no question. Easily the best performance car for the price.
Originally Posted By Halfway⏩
Don't care about creature comforts and I wont be Drag Racing the car. It will be a 2nd car for me..... 4th between the wife & I.....this will literally be a purpose built track/autocross car, that's why I was considering going older, as suspension upgrades will be necessary no matter what year I go with. I plan pulling everything out of the interior except the dash, racing seats and a roll cage.....again mentally this would be easier for me in a car I paid $5k for vs one for $13k.I wouldn't rip the seats etc out unless you're looking for something to break 8 seconds.. id buy a stock 2015 with low miles and start there. You'll have a lot of potential and it'll have the creature comforts missing from the 17 year old model
Originally Posted By waisoserious⏩
I just need to find a good inbetween. Too new....I'll feel badly about ripping it and too old and it will be boring and possibly break easily.Buy Newer and Mod less.
The older car is likely already broken down already and any money you put into it in terms of repairs and mods will be more significant than if the car was newer. But you wont see any of that money come back to you when you decide to sell the car.
Get the newer car. Unless all the mods you are planning to do are really cheap.
The older car is likely already broken down already and any money you put into it in terms of repairs and mods will be more significant than if the car was newer. But you wont see any of that money come back to you when you decide to sell the car.
Get the newer car. Unless all the mods you are planning to do are really cheap.
What about the 2005-2009 GT's w/ the 3v 4.6? They've got a little more power and I would think with some mods/weight reduction they'd be moderately quick.
If it hasn't been established already...I want a loud & lopey V8, 2 door, manual, RWD that can be modded to have 350-450 RWHP and be weight reduced to be around or under 3k lbs.
07-29-2020, 10:33 AM
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#22
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Originally Posted By bsmit107⏩
For the reason of not wanting a vette and wanting more of a sleeper I got a GTO, I did some weight reduction and added a good amount of power. It isn’t going to be a good track car though, you’d be lucky to get it to 3200. You could pull the AC, trunk support, the stock exhaust is heavy as hell, rear seats, spare tire kit. If you really wanted to save more you could replace the driver and passenger seat with racing seats, but the GTO seats are one of my favorite parts of the car.Yea that's just it...I kind of don't want a Corvette. lol, Id love an LS1 though.
If it hasn't been established already...I want a loud & lopey V8, 2 door, manual, RWD that can be modded to have 350-450 RWHP and be weight reduced to be around or under 3k lbs.
If it hasn't been established already...I want a loud & lopey V8, 2 door, manual, RWD that can be modded to have 350-450 RWHP and be weight reduced to be around or under 3k lbs.
It’s a fun cruiser and still all these years later catches people off guard when I start it I get some confused looks for sure.
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08-17-2020, 08:18 AM
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#23
- bsmit107
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Went and looked at a '97 Supra this weekend, great shape, roller.... no engine, completely gutted interior, was a manual car....was a guys drag project that he gave up on....wanted $800 for it. All it needed was an LS and a T56......yea ok.jpg....
Fiance brought me back to reality and talked me out of it.....I gotta stop watching YouTube or legit quit my day job and buy a shop..... lol Would have been a great, fun car once done but that would easily be a year from now with everything else going on in life right now.
If that's the route I'm going to go, Id rather build the motor, then find the car to put it in, not have the car sitting in the garage for however many months while I build the motor.
Fiance brought me back to reality and talked me out of it.....I gotta stop watching YouTube or legit quit my day job and buy a shop..... lol Would have been a great, fun car once done but that would easily be a year from now with everything else going on in life right now.
If that's the route I'm going to go, Id rather build the motor, then find the car to put it in, not have the car sitting in the garage for however many months while I build the motor.
08-17-2020, 08:21 AM
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#24
- Redfish225
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80’s donk, LS swap it, report back.
I loe e.
08-17-2020, 09:00 AM
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#25
- bsmit107
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Originally Posted By Redfish225⏩
Don't temp me with a good time. lol80’s donk, LS swap it, report back.
Being able to stand in the engine bay while working on the engine would be nice.
12-04-2020, 08:51 AM
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#26
- bsmit107
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Calling around yesterday to get prices on motors. Probably going with a 5.3 from a pull yard about an hour away. My buddies dad bought a motor from them a few months back (for a 4Runner) and it was great....... $850 for complete motor/harness/computer already pulled, stored inside and on a pallet with a "30 day warranty" The guy basically said if I pull it apart and somethings broke they'll exchange it.
Plan is to rebuild, gap rings for turbo (10-12 psi), ported heads, cam, injectors, flash ECU. Build motor then find car to put it in.
I've spent the last month prepping a room off of my garage for the engine build. Finally starting boys....Merry Christmas to me.
Plan is to rebuild, gap rings for turbo (10-12 psi), ported heads, cam, injectors, flash ECU. Build motor then find car to put it in.
I've spent the last month prepping a room off of my garage for the engine build. Finally starting boys....Merry Christmas to me.
12-04-2020, 01:13 PM
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#27
- Zackad
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Originally Posted By bsmit107⏩
das it, looking forward to the build/finished productCalling around yesterday to get prices on motors. Probably going with a 5.3 from a pull yard about an hour away. My buddies dad bought a motor from them a few months back (for a 4Runner) and it was great....... $850 for complete motor/harness/computer already pulled, stored inside and on a pallet with a "30 day warranty" The guy basically said if I pull it apart and somethings broke they'll exchange it.
Plan is to rebuild, gap rings for turbo (10-12 psi), ported heads, cam, injectors, flash ECU. Build motor then find car to put it in.
I've spent the last month prepping a room off of my garage for the engine build. Finally starting boys....Merry Christmas to me.
Plan is to rebuild, gap rings for turbo (10-12 psi), ported heads, cam, injectors, flash ECU. Build motor then find car to put it in.
I've spent the last month prepping a room off of my garage for the engine build. Finally starting boys....Merry Christmas to me.
one day I'll have the spare funds, space, and time to do something like this
"So t
12-04-2020, 03:24 PM
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#28
- SouthDakotaBrah
- SUPERNOVA
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- SouthDakotaBrah
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- Join Date: Jul 2012
- Location: Kansas City, Missouri, United States
- Age: 32
- Posts: 11,275
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Originally Posted By bsmit107⏩
fuuuarkCalling around yesterday to get prices on motors. Probably going with a 5.3 from a pull yard about an hour away. My buddies dad bought a motor from them a few months back (for a 4Runner) and it was great....... $850 for complete motor/harness/computer already pulled, stored inside and on a pallet with a "30 day warranty" The guy basically said if I pull it apart and somethings broke they'll exchange it.
Plan is to rebuild, gap rings for turbo (10-12 psi), ported heads, cam, injectors, flash ECU. Build motor then find car to put it in.
I've spent the last month prepping a room off of my garage for the engine build. Finally starting boys....Merry Christmas to me.
Plan is to rebuild, gap rings for turbo (10-12 psi), ported heads, cam, injectors, flash ECU. Build motor then find car to put it in.
I've spent the last month prepping a room off of my garage for the engine build. Finally starting boys....Merry Christmas to me.
05-17-2021, 12:00 PM
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#29
- bsmit107
- Living in 3024
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- bsmit107
- Living in 3024
- Join Date: May 2010
- Location: Georgia, United States
- Posts: 21,085
- Rep Power: 189967
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I finally bought a project for autox/canyon carving/weekend fun. Ill admit it's not what I was originally in the market for, but I got a great deal and coulnd't pass it up.
It's definitely a project and needs some love, but that's the point. Came with some goodies already....
-JDM swapped EJ20
-Cobb accessport V3
-Larger front mount intercooler
-3 Port electronic boost controller
-External Wastegate
-Walbro 225 fuel pump
-DW pressure regulator
-Adjustable Coilovers
Im stoked.
2003 Subaru WRX . Yes, it came with the front bumper...just not attached.
It's definitely a project and needs some love, but that's the point. Came with some goodies already....
-JDM swapped EJ20
-Cobb accessport V3
-Larger front mount intercooler
-3 Port electronic boost controller
-External Wastegate
-Walbro 225 fuel pump
-DW pressure regulator
-Adjustable Coilovers
Im stoked.
2003 Subaru WRX . Yes, it came with the front bumper...just not attached.
08-17-2021, 11:47 AM
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#30
- bsmit107
- Living in 3024
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- bsmit107
- Living in 3024
- Join Date: May 2010
- Location: Georgia, United States
- Posts: 21,085
- Rep Power: 189967
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Ended up putting like $1000 into the WRX and now I'm selling it.
-New Rotors/pads/calipers
-New intercooler (old one had a leak)
-New Re-circulating BOV (old one was leaking)
-New shift linkage/bushings & short throw
-professionally re-tuned for Stage 2 (makes 18psi)
Picked up a Big Block Chevy 402 with a TH400 and am going to rebuild/build up that and find something to put it in for a street/strip car.
The WRX is fun but when it comes down to it, it's not exactly what I want and I need room in the garage for what's next.
-New Rotors/pads/calipers
-New intercooler (old one had a leak)
-New Re-circulating BOV (old one was leaking)
-New shift linkage/bushings & short throw
-professionally re-tuned for Stage 2 (makes 18psi)
Picked up a Big Block Chevy 402 with a TH400 and am going to rebuild/build up that and find something to put it in for a street/strip car.
The WRX is fun but when it comes down to it, it's not exactly what I want and I need room in the garage for what's next.
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